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A vibrant home-grown collection

Kathleen O’Callaghan takes a look at Dublin’s thriving and talented fashion design community

A textile designer by trade, Caroline Duffy brings her flair for colour to homewares and soft furnishings as well as clothing
A textile designer by trade, Caroline Duffy brings her flair for colour to homewares and soft furnishings as well as clothing

Talented Irish designers are making names for themselves both at home and abroad with their distinctive creations. The eye-catching creations of designers such as Faye Anna Rochford of FéRí, Roisín Pierce and Hope Macaulay, as well as award-winning talents like Lily Davis McGrath of April Lily, Sara O’Neill of Éadach, Amy Anderson of Kindred of Ireland and Greg Hall of Pellador are making waves in the style scene. Meanwhile established labels like Louise Kennedy and Simone Rocha continue to capture the spotlight and Paul Costelloe’s legacy lives on with his son William taking the helm.

Kindred Of Ireland, founded by Amy Anderson, makes luxury Irish linen pieces with a contemporary edge. Anderson studied textiles art, design and fashion at the University of Ulster in Belfast.

Kindred makes individual pieces that link past, present and future. Each garment is made to be treasured for years to come.

Where the Wind Blows raglan tweed coat with floral motif, €1,684, Kindred of Ireland
Where the Wind Blows raglan tweed coat with floral motif, €1,684, Kindred of Ireland

“If the clothes are looked after well then they should last a few lifetimes,” says Amy. “At Kindred of Ireland, we make luxury linen with heritage and heart, breathing new life into the tradition of Irish linen by creating timeless pieces with a contemporary edge. It’s about owning our heritage in the linen industry, connecting with our ancestors and protecting a positive legacy. We take the time to reflect on our values and live by them, handcrafting sustainable pieces that tread lightly, putting into practice our beliefs that old techniques can be reimagined.”

Faye Anna Rochford the founder of FéRí is another fashion designer who finds artistic inspiration in nature and farming. She was a graduate of NCAD in 2009 and worked in the fashion industry in London, New York and Dublin. As an eco-conscious designer, she uses natural and reclaimed vintage textiles and organic materials to make her dresses, jackets, skirts and accessories. The brand promotes the motto “Wear. Care. Mend. Lend.”

Jasmine dress in lilac, €390, FéRí, feri.ie
Jasmine dress in lilac, €390, FéRí, feri.ie

“The idea is to cherish each piece we create like an item to be valued for many years to come. I called my recent collections Field Dance because I grew up on a farm and was happily surrounded by nature. The farm is an integral part of my work, inspiring many of my collections. It is both playful and productive. I love silk and how beautifully it drapes, particularly with the bias-cut silhouettes. I also love the crisp durability of creating pieces in cotton canvas. I have had the privilege of some amazing talented people wearing my dresses, from Amy Huberman to Imelda May and Laura Whitmore. In keeping with these talented creatives I would love to dress Jessie Buckley or Saoirse Ronan one day.”

She would also like to see dedicated EU funds supporting sustainable business models and assistance with reduced VAT rates for certified sustainable materials and the provision of investment grants to help local manufacturing.

Lily Davis McGrath is a passionate independent fashion designer based in Bray, Co Wicklow. She has been growing her brand, April Lily, over the past year. April Lily is all about bold colours, silhouettes and drama. Inspired by strong women, she “creates pieces which allow the wearer to claim their space while feeling beautiful doing so”.

Blue and black zipped dress with contrasting bell sleeves by Lily Davis McGrath of April Lily
Blue and black zipped dress with contrasting bell sleeves by Lily Davis McGrath of April Lily

Having studied in The Grafton Academy she has honed her skills and represents a new generation of fashion creatives gaining attention through academic showcases and fashion community events. Her dresses and hand pleated jackets and trousers reveal a sense of drama. She was delighted to see presenter Fionnuala Moran wearing one of her funky blue dresses at the recent Junk Couture Fashion show. She has been tipped as one to watch in the emerging talents sector and currently works as a costume designer at Ardmore Studios.

The Pellador label has developed something of a cult following with those who have a penchant for offbeat and original streetwear. The collection has a fun sporty vibe and is the brainchild of Limerick-based designer Greg Hall, who originally began designing apparel with Celtic-inspired motifs and imagery mixed with a fascination with soccer.

Blue and white cable sweater, €150, Pellador at Brown Thomas
Blue and white cable sweater, €150, Pellador at Brown Thomas

“By interlinking the two passions I came up with a distinctive and dynamic brand that also captures a bit of Italia 90’s vibrant colours of reds, blues and greens,” he says. “The whole idea really works well within the knitwear concept, and the idea just grew from sportswear to the streetwear,” he explains. “From the pitch to the pavement one might say.”

The products are designed in his Limerick studio, focusing on heritage with a modern, nostalgic twist while the manufacturing is mainly done abroad. Greg’s energy and youthful patterns attracted Brown Thomas to stock his range in the menswear section.

For a truly imaginative designer you won’t need to search further than Sara O’Neill and her brand Éadach. Her wardrobe wonders are the work of a fine artist whose medium happens to be textiles. In recent years Éadach has graced the red carpet and winners’ stages of the Oscars, the Baftas, the Iftas and the Emmys. The Edge wore a custom-painted jacket for U2’s Las Vegas residency in The Sphere, and in 2022 The Dreamer collection was purchased by the Ulster Museum as part of its permanent collection.

Banshee dark rose silk dress, stg£450/€600, Eadach by Sarah O'Neill at Brown Thomas and eadach.com
Banshee dark rose silk dress, stg£450/€600, Eadach by Sarah O'Neill at Brown Thomas and eadach.com

“My limited-edition prints were inspired by my grandmother’s stories, and they pay homage to Irish myth and legend and my native north coast of Co Louth,” she says.

Fiona Heaney of the well-known label Fee G creates beautiful, distinctive garments for the boutique market. She makes smart event pieces that women can wear, enjoy, and treasure. Celebrated for her love of colour and bold prints she brings a signature vibrancy and femininity to her designs that feature intricate embroidery and embellishment. It’s all created in her Dublin studio where her team looks after every stage of the development.

“Over the years my designs have grown into a collection of timeless pieces for women who love colour, creativity and effortless style. From knits to versatile dresses that travel from city to seaside escapes. Like a favourite fragrance every garment comes to life in its own way with the woman who wears it. My hope is that this sense of joy and freedom is felt in every stitch,” she says.

Anita puff ball skirt in pink, €155, from Fee G
Anita puff ball skirt in pink, €155, from Fee G

Spanish native Silvia Ortega studied fashion design at the Dublin Institute of Design.

Spanish native Silvia Ortega studied fashion in Dublin and works within a sustainable slow fashion framework, designing and crafting small, on-demand collections to minimise fabric waste.

“Today, my brand epitomises sustainable fashion, embracing timeless designs crafted from natural fabrics that cater to modern, eco-conscious woman. It aims to create timeless and versatile women’s clothes suitable for any occasion,” she says.

Her designs are further enhanced with bold elements such as vibrant silk linings, chunky zips, large buttons, draped pieces, sheer fabrics, flounces and crochet and are available at Om Diva and Marian Cuddy Emporium in Dublin and online.