James Joyce and the humble pint

Sir, – Not only is the humble pint referred to in Ulysses as "wine of the country" (An Irishman's Diary, March 18th) but there is also a more cryptic reference to it in the Oxen of the Sun episode, where, in Burke's Pub, someone shouts an order for "two Ardilauns", referring to Lord Ardilaun, one of the Guinness family partners in 1904. Wine of the country? Ardilauns? The pint of plain has come a long way!

– Yours, etc,

ROBERT P GOGAN,

Kilbeggan,

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Co Westmeath.