“IT MADE me want to throw everything out and start afresh,” sighed a customer approvingly after Louise Kennedy’s salon show of her autumn-winter collection in 56 Merrion Square yesterday.
It was a busy day for the designer with three showings, two in Merrion Square and another at a special sellout afternoon tea event at the Merrion Hotel for Irish Times readers.
The collection, an opulent study in black and gold, had the refinement and detailing that are familiar Kennedy hallmarks. It was inspired, she said, by the rare bookbindings in the famous Getty library outside London.
Fabrics were luxurious and tactile, many with restrained hand beading like black tweed suits threaded with sequins that sparkled in daylight or simple black sheaths, their shoulders embellished with beading. The models’ hair, scraped back and braided, had similar polish, as was the fuss-free styling by Catherine Condell.
A stunning gold lurex evening coat that opened the show was a Linton tweed revived from the 1940s from the company that was – and still remains – a Chanel favourite. New this season is a collection of jewellery such as chained belts and Swarovski cuffs designed by Kennedy in the season’s shades to complement the popular and more affordable jersey wrap dresses which came with kimono or batwing sleeves.
The look throughout was thoroughbred, the shapes fundamentally simple, linear or fluid, the key item being cropped cigarette pants that narrowed the silhouette.
Standout items included a long-sleeved black evening gown backed with ornamental black lace and a glittering sheath in black and gold lace with delicate gold beading.
Prices started at €295 for skirts, €350 for trousers, €695 for jersey dresses up to €1,795 and over for cashmere or fur coats.
