Alongside its well-known alternative attractions, the city offers picturesque canal views and a wealth of art and architectural splendour, writes Steven Carroll
IT'S EASY TO see why Amsterdam is a favourite weekend away for many Irish people. One of Europe's most colourful cities is just a short hop from Ireland, and it caters for all interests.
This is my second visit to the city. On my first, during a dismally wet and cold winter week two years ago, I found Amsterdam a bit lifeless and quite hazardous, because of all the bicycles as well as the bad weather.
This time I get on my bike, and it proves an excellent way to navigate the city. A cycle (or indeed a stroll) along Amsterdam's oldest canals, where buildings date back as far as 1541, makes it easy to imagine the grandeur and prosperity of the city back in the 17th century.
At that time Amsterdam was one of the world's wealthiest and most cultured places. During this golden age the capital of The Netherlands was a centre of trade, finance and art, and many of these traits are reflected in the architecture, style and mood of the city in modern times.
A late-morning visit to the Rijksmuseum, which houses masterpieces by Dutch artists such as Rembrandt and Vermeer, proves to be a good place to begin taking in some of Amsterdam's history. With a diverse collection of almost a million objects, it demands plenty of time from visitors who want to view its many exhibitions of sculpture, print and Asian artefacts.
From there I pedal westwards to Vondelpark. During the flower-power era of the 1960s and 1970s the park became a symbol, a place where everything was possible and anything went. Now it is a great recreational facility, suitable for people of all ages.
Among its charms are an open-air theatre, beautifully maintained gardens and water features, a number of restaurants and the national film museum, which screens everything from 19th-century silent films to contemporary digital productions, often on the museum's front terrace during spells of good weather.
After a day's cycling I park the bike to take in some of the alternative attractions Amsterdam has become famous for.
A stroll east from Damrak, one of Amsterdam's main thoroughfares, leads you into the unique surroundings of De Wallen, the city's red-light district.
In this maze of narrow streets and canals, the darker it gets the more surreal it becomes. Visitors can expect to be invited into live sex shows, to see scantily clad prostitutes attempting to lure customers into the rooms beneath the district's many red lights and to see men haggling over the price of sex.
It seems absurd at first. It's perfectly legal, however, accepted by locals, and has to be seen to be believed.
Another Amsterdam anomaly is the selection of tiny "coffee shops", dotted throughout the city's streets, which sell marijuana over the counter.
In The Netherlands the sale of cannabis is illegal but not punishable, so the law is not enforced in establishments that follow rules about minimum age of purchasers - 18 - drug advertising and public behaviour. This loophole has seen dozens of coffee shops open their doors in Amsterdam over the past 30 years.
In these often gaudy venues you can expect to see bleary-eyed young tourists, images of cannabis plants plastered all over their walls and a chorus of reggae music.
Coffee shops are not a big hit with the locals, but they have become one of Amsterdam's biggest tourist draws.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go if you're in the Dutch capital for a weekend
Where to stay
Hotel Pulitzer. Prinsengracht 315-31,
00-31-20-5235235,
www.pulitzer.nl. A palace of a
place, with 230 rooms spread over some 25 canal houses. This is a
glorious venue for culture-seekers willing to part with their
money. It has a good restaurant, lovely gardens and beautiful art.
Doubles from €229.
Amstel Botel. Oosterdokskade 2-4, 1011 AE, 00-31-20- 6264247, www.amstelbotel.nl. Anchored alongside Centraal Station, this floating hotel has become something of an institution. The Botel has plenty to offer, especially in its lively bar. Double from €89.
Euphemia Hotel. 1-9 Fokke Simonzstraat, 00-31-20-6229045, www.euphemiahotel.com. Cheap and cheerful accommodation in a great location for tourists who want to visit Amsterdam's museum district. Doubles from €70.
Hotel Sofitel. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 67, 00-31-20-6275900, www.sofitel.com. An immaculately restored 13th-century building near Centraal Station, the Sofitel is well situated for shopping, sightseeing and eating, as long as you're not on a tight budget. This is a tastefully furnished venue with a strong sense of grandeur inside and out. Double from €220.
Winston Hotel. Warmoestraat 129, 00-31-20-6231380, www.winston.nl. This arty hostel-cum-hotel is popular with young tourists visiting the city. Reasonable room rates are available, and there's a lively late-night bar and adjoining night club. Doubles from €84.
Where to eat
Bazar. Albert Cuypstraat 182,
00-31-20-6750544,
www.bazaramsterdam.nl.
This former church, now an Arabic-kitsch cafe, is one of the
culinary glories of Amsterdam. Affordable and delicious food served
in a delightful setting amid the city's bustling market.
La Place. Rokin 203, 00-31-900-2358363, www.laplace.nl. This delicious food court and restaurant offers a vast range of cuisines, including Italian, Thai and Dutch, as well as an array of sandwiches, salads and desserts.
Brasserie Harkema. Nes 67. 00-31-20-4282222, www.brasserieharkema.nl. This former tobacco factory has livened up the local scene with its interesting design, selection of wines and a classic French kitchen that stays open late into the night.
Christophe. Leliegracht 46, 00-31-20-6250807, www.restaurantchristophe.nl. This elegant venue has an excellent Mediterranean menu, for which owner Christophe Royer has been awarded a Michelin star. A little pricey, but worth it.
Kilimanjaro. Rapenburgerplein 6, 00-31-20-6223485. Friendly pan-African eatery offering traditional recipes from Senegal, Ivory Coast, Tanzania and Ethiopia. After dinner, a great selection of cocktails and beers awaits.
Where to go
Rijksmuseum. Jan Luijkenstraat 1,
00-31-20-6747000,
www.rijksmuseum.nl. The
Dutch national museum is a wonderful building dedicated to arts,
crafts and history. It has a large collection of paintings from the
Dutch golden age and a substantial collection of Asian art, as well
as a huge public library.
Anne Frank House. Prinsengracht 267, 00-31-20-5567100, www.annefrank.org. This museum tells the story of the remarkable young girl who went into hiding in an attempt to avoid the Nazi Holocaust during the second World War. Her famed diary is among the objects on display.
Ajax Amsterdam Arena. Arena Boulevard 29, 00-31-20-3111444, http://english.ajax.nl. A beautiful modern stadium complete with an extensive museum that showcases the rich history of Ajax's European glories in the 1970s, during the heyday of total football. Match-day packages are available for most games, and museum tours can be arranged.
Van Gogh Museum. Paulus Potterstraat 7, 00-31-20-5705200, www.vangoghmuseum.nl. A must-see, the museum contains the world's largest collection of Van Gogh's paintings. Van Gogh's work is organised chronologically into five periods, each representing a different phase of his life.
Pathé Tuschinski cinema. Reguliersbreestraat 26-34, 00-31-9001458, www.tuschinski.nl. The Tuschinski cinema is a huge art-deco palace showing a diverse range of films, new and old, in a historic setting. The venue comes with a rich history, with Marlene Dietrich, Edith Piaf, Dizzy Gillespie and Fats Domino all having graced its stage.
Hot spot
Jazz Café Alto. Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115,
00-31-20-6263249,
www.jazz-cafe-alto.nl.
Amsterdam's oldest and most famous jazz cafe has a quartet playing
live every night in a small but comfortable setting. Occasional
guest combos are worth keeping an eye out for, as are travelling
blues artists passing through town.
Cool coffee
Bakkerswinkel. Warmoestraat 69,
00-31-20-4898000.
www.debakkerswinkel.nl.
This dainty but unpretentious bakery and tea room closely resembles
an old-fashioned English country kitchen. It serves beautifully
prepared breakfasts, hearty sandwiches and delicious desserts.
Where to shop
Albert Cuypmarkt. Albert Cuypstraat, in the De Pijp
area of the Oud-Zuid district. Amsterdam's largest market has some
300 stalls carrying fresh foods and bric-a-brac to cater for all
tastes.
Go there
Aer Lingus (
www.aerlingus.com) flies to
Amsterdam Schiphol from Dublin, Cork and Belfast. Ryanair (
www.ryanair.com) flies from
Dublin to Eindhoven.