Couturier Peter O'Brien opened the Arnotts autumn/winter show in style presenting 20 outfits from his seventh capsule collection for the store to an invited audience of some 400 people. O'Brien's familiar hand was evident in this handsome line up with its strict no-nonsense colours of navy, black and "army" grey, with bold herringbone tweed ensembles adding textural richness, alongside the occasional shot of claret for a caped "Infanta" dress.
It had that mix of tailoring and “flou” that is very much his signature – the full-skirted shapely coat with portrait collar and the flirtatious silk pleated panel dresses – day wear blending in to night-time allure. “It takes a really brave woman to wear a quiet dress,” he says.
His colour palette is as famously predictable as the quality fabrics that he prefers, such as double-faced wool crepe and duchesse satin. The finish and attention to detail from long experience of haute couture in Paris are always to the fore.
A woman of style might appreciate the cut and the flare of a wrapped black tuxedo dress with ribbon detail or a belted satin trench. If some coats favoured the svelte of shape, there were others more forgiving.
His love of pleating continues – permanent pleats – in concertina style silk blouses with Peter Pan collars, khaki pleated tunics or silk chiffon dresses with swinging backs.
Wide-leg trousers had the right degree of slouch, double-breasted coats had convertible collars or velvet borders, while jaunty navy jackets were a new take on his popular pea coats.
The three piece ensemble in tweed, woven specially in Portugal in navy, khaki and cream, was fresh and simple without unnecessary detail allowing the pattern to speak for itself. Though not at the show, the collection also includes some of his award-winning knitwear pieces in collaboration with Fisherman out of Ireland, sweaters in grey and navy with various detachable collars.
Overall, for its quality, cut and overall elegance, this is one of the best-priced Irish collections on the market and it would be no surprise if the new owners of Arnotts, the Selfridges Group, would take it into their Brown Thomas stores in Ireland.
