The Brown Thomas autumn winter show, one of the city’s premier stylish breakfast events, flushed out the fashion crowd at 8.30am on Tuesday to witness star pieces from the top international brands that indicate the main directions of what a woman of fashion (and means) might contemplate for the coming season.

With nearly one hundred ensembles including some menswear, those directions are diverse and more a mix of flou than severe tailoring, with exaggerated oversize volumes competing with bodycon dresses (Victoria Beckham) and what’s now called haute couture sportswear from the Vetements collective (plaid jackets, hoodies and thigh high shiny black boots).

Dresses dominated with longer, more feminine and flyaway affairs in dark floral or woodland prints (Gucci, Givenchy, Erdem) evoking the 70s kept in check with elaborate bomber or biker jackets. They counterpointed the more adventurous and playful flared trouser suits and wide shouldered jackets from Ellery, a new Australian label.

“It’s a very feminine season but with more of a grunge look” commented womenswear director Shelly Corkery who said that the store had tripled its buy of Gucci this season where the new artistic director Alessandro Michele’s revamping of the brand continues. His “renaissance biker” and “Catherine de Medici meets the 70s” looks for autumn winter influenced by Italian art have made him currently one of the most widely copied designers around.

Vintage references abounded throughout in contemporary rather than literal ways allowing any kind of modish interpretation. New labels included Loewe from Spain and Proenza Schouler joining established store favourites like Stella McCartney with her practical laid back pieces (pantaloons and easygoing coats) and Dolce & Gabbana’s sexy, witty takes on black lace and velvet. Embellishment was a strong feature everywhere from the glittering rhinestones on Preen’s black velvet dresses to David Koma’s ornate decor and Erdem’s glitter tweeds.

The decorative power of texture was nowhere more beautifully expressed than in an ensemble from Dries Van Noten whose collection was inspired by a famous Italian femme fatale. The combination of a leopard print coat, poison green faux fur, metallic bib and velvet trousers made it the look of the season.