The Fern House Cafe, a modern take on an 18th century orangery, was the airy woodland setting for an informal presentation of Avoca Anthology’s autumn winter fashion collection at its headquarters in Kilmacanogue yesterday.

Designed by Avoca’s creative director Amanda Pratt and now in its 11th successful year, the collection bore all the hallmarks of her trademark girlish but sophisticated style in its colour, fabric, prints and whimsical flourishes.

Her eye for the telling detail, like that of Paul Smith, is everywhere: from vintage Italian scarf prints for dresses to tiny coloured buttons enlivening a tweed jacket or discreet braiding on skirt pockets and waistbands.

“I always start with the fabric and what interests me is bothering about details,” she says.

Coats in soft mohair or textured wools were roomy and strong in shades of green, grey or shocking pink (€219) while silk shirts featured carousel horseprint motifs (€129).

Highlights this season include the “Rome” dress (€119) in a black/blue and cream mosaic print jersey with a nifty front gathering and jersey skirts with casual front ties and discreet pleating.

Back to the 1960s

Individually, there were many interesting pieces such as a bold 1960s op art print coat, a tunic with a red-on-white motif sprigged with tiny lace and beading and black chiffon print shirts with “lemon jelly” buttons.

The skill lies in putting these disparate elements together, such as combining a chunky oversized sweater with a tight pencil skirt and knee high coloured socks.

Avoca Anthology is now sold in 300 boutiques and department stores worldwide and has a particular following in Japan and Germany. Everything is made in Europe. “It matters to me that we make in Europe because Europe is our market,” says Pratt.