Subscriber OnlyFood Month

Irish restaurants to visit for special occasions: From Chapter One in Dublin to Lignum in Galway

When you’re treating yourself or others, do it properly in one of these very fine spots

Chapter One chef-patron Mickael Viljanen. Photograph: Alan Betson
Chapter One chef-patron Mickael Viljanen. Photograph: Alan Betson

Ananda

Dundrum Town Centre, Dundrum, Dublin 14; 01-2960099, anandarestaurant.ie
A dish from Ananda in Dundrum
A dish from Ananda in Dundrum

Since opening in 2008, Ananda has delivered exceptional Indian food in spectacular surroundings. The elegant and spacious diningroom is a perfect match for the vibrant dishes, be it Goan-style halibut with prawns and lemon leaf bouillabaisse or lentil dumplings with masala Glenilen yoghurt and aged tamarind preserve. Plump for the tasting menu to enjoy the full experience, paired with well-chosen wines. JC

Artis

29-31 Craft Village, Derry BT47 6BD; +44 28 7126 1212, artisatcraftvillagederry.com
Phelim O'Hagan of Artis in Derry's Craft Village
Phelim O'Hagan of Artis in Derry's Craft Village

A quiet haven for local craftspeople is an appropriate backdrop for Phelim O’Hagan’s restaurant and its keen focus on Northern ingredients. Opened in 2021, a listing in the Michelin guide soon followed, secured via dishes such as Donegal Dexter beef rump with shortrib croquette and Guinness rarebit, butter poached cod with saffron potato and Gubbeen chorizo. JC

Bastible

11 South Circular Road, Dublin 8; 01-4737409, bastible.com
Bastible in Dublin 8
Bastible in Dublin 8

With muted green walls, blonde wood furniture and plenty of space, the diningroom at Bastible manages to stay on just the right side of austere. The open kitchen takes up the far end, with most diners able to get a good view of the chefs at work. The tasting menu echoes the room, with pared-back dishes that pack quite a punch. Understated, yes, but superbly executed and matched with a very good wine list. Read our review here. JC

Chapter One

18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1; 01-8732266, chapteronerestaurant.com
Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen. Photograph: Donal Murphy
Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen. Photograph: Donal Murphy

There are no hushed tones in this two-Michelin-starred diningroom, just warm welcomes and lively service. Beautifully executed dishes, using luxe ingredients, are often swoon-worthy, particularly when it comes to the pastry. The whole thing feels like a seasoned orchestra playing; everything in the room and on the plate is in harmony. Sure, it’s not cheap, but with nothing else like it, it feels worth the spend. AD

Chapter One chef Mickael Viljanen: ‘I was meant to stay in Ireland for a year and that’s 24 years ago’Opens in new window ]

Dax

23 Pembroke Street Upper, Dublin 2; 01-6761494, dax.ie
Heirloom tomato, Toonsbridge mozzarella, virgin olive oil, aged balsamic, fine herbs at Dax. Photograph: Instagram
Heirloom tomato, Toonsbridge mozzarella, virgin olive oil, aged balsamic, fine herbs at Dax. Photograph: Instagram

After 20 years, Dax still delivers Dublin’s most refined take on classical French cooking. Graham Neville’s plates – courgette flowers stuffed with Dublin Bay prawns, John Dory, Tipperary beef, and mille-feuille of Irish rhubarb – are elegant and precise. Owner Olivier Meisonnave runs the floor with aplomb and has built one of the country’s great wine lists, stretching from biodynamic bottles to Grand Cru heavyweights. Lunch, from Wednesday to Saturday, is one of the city’s great escapes; dinner carries the same quiet assurance. CH

Homestead Cottage

Luogh North, Doolin, Co Clare; 065-6794133, homesteadcottage.com
Homestead Cottage in Doolin, Co Clare. Photograph: Brian Arthur
Homestead Cottage in Doolin, Co Clare. Photograph: Brian Arthur

Inside this picture-perfect thatched cottage you’ll find terrific Michelin-starred modern Irish cuisine by chef Robbie McCauley. Seasonal game, Aran turbot, Galway chanterelles and produce from the kitchen garden are crafted into pretty plates of food with real substance. Flagstone floors and open fires set the scene for cosy yet refined dining, matched by a drinks list featuring more than 450 wines. AD

Liath

Blackrock Market, Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 085-1278680, liathrestaurant.com
Liath chef and owner Damien Grey. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw
Liath chef and owner Damien Grey. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw

Tucked away in one of the darker corners of Blackrock market, the entrance to Liath is brightly illuminated, drawing diners into the comfort inside. Although this is a small restaurant, it is big in attitude and character, with a sublime tasting menu experience. The restaurant’s social media doesn’t profile current dishes, meaning that diners will truly be experiencing dishes for the first time. Read our review here. JC

Library Street

101 Setanta Place, Dublin 2; 01-6170999, librarystreet.ie
Kevin Burke at Library Street
Kevin Burke at Library Street

A top spot for modern Irish fine dining with no fuss. Chef-proprietor Kevin Burke and team use lots of local, seasonal ingredients and take a contemporary approach to classic cooking, with delicious results such as turbot head with moreish miso cooked over fire or addictive horseradish choux buns. A thoughtful wine list pairs well with the innovative menu. After four years of refinement, it just keeps getting better and is now happily open on Monday. AD

Lignum

Ballaun, Loughrea, Co Galway; 087-3300559, lignum.ie
Lignum manager Molly Keane with chef and owner Danny Africano. Photograph: Tristan Hutchinson
Lignum manager Molly Keane with chef and owner Danny Africano. Photograph: Tristan Hutchinson

It’s often said that achieving a Michelin star allows a chef to relax. Who knows if it’s true, but Danny Africano’s sleek Lignum is certainly flying high since winning one earlier this year. Cooking over open flame is at the soul of this kitchen, which produces dishes so beautiful you may feel guilty about eating them. The Saturday and Sunday five-course lunch menus offer excellent value. Read our review here. JC

Ox

1 Oxford Street, Belfast BT1 3LA; +44-28-90314121, oxbelfast.com
Ox, Belfast
Ox, Belfast

It’s always a pleasure to dine at Ox, whether it’s during the daytime with light flooding in through the large windows, or in the evening when a cosier atmosphere settles over the room. Over the years, Stephen Toman and Alain Kerloc’h have never wavered in their dedication to quality. Enjoy classic gougères made with Coolattin cheddar, Thornill duck with hispi and elderberries, and elevated vanilla rice pudding, served with Alain’s wonderful wine pairings. Read our review here. JC

The Glass Curtain

Thompson House, MacCurtain Street, Cork, Co Cork; 021-4518659, theglasscurtain.ie
Scallop crudo, saffron sabayon, spring flowers at The Glass Curtain, Cork. Photograph: Joleen Cronin
Scallop crudo, saffron sabayon, spring flowers at The Glass Curtain, Cork. Photograph: Joleen Cronin

The Glass Curtain continues to evolve, having built a solid reputation for large dishes, ideal for sharing around the table, all cooked over open fire. Frequent collaborations bring new ideas to the kitchen, with seasonal and foraged produce at the centre. Brian Murray’s list of suppliers reads like a who’s who of Cork food royalty, and the sleek modern interior is a fun place to be with friends and family. JC

Restaurant Chestnut

The Chestnut Tree, Staball Hill, Ballydehob, Co Cork; 028-25766, restaurantchestnutwestcork.ie
Restaurant Chestnut's upstairs casual dining space
Restaurant Chestnut's upstairs casual dining space

Rob Krawczyk and Elaine Fleming’s Michelin one-star restaurant is best known for its €120 tasting menu, but the €75 four-course at 5.45pm shows the same precision in a shorter form. It opens with brown soda bread and house-smoked cultured butter before moving on to dishes that show Krawczyk at his sharpest – native crab with smoked mackerel royale, egg baked in brown butter with trout roe, a loose-crumbed fish cake folded with herbs, and vinegared strawberries and cultured cream. CH

The Muddlers Club

Unit 1, Warehouse Lane, Belfast BT1 2DX; +44-28-90313199, themuddlersclubbelfast.com
A dish from The Muddlers Club. Photograph: Elaine Hill
A dish from The Muddlers Club. Photograph: Elaine Hill

Named after the secret Masonic society that met there more than 200 years ago, Gareth McCaughey’s restaurant is certainly no secret to Belfast diners. His philosophy is to keep things simple while using the very best of ingredients. The menu changes regularly, but look out for dishes such as Wicklow venison with beetroot and plum, Mourne lamb with aubergine and miso, or the cherry and tonka bean tart. In a welcome move, there are more than 75 wines available by the glass. JC

Corinna Hardgrave

Corinna Hardgrave

Corinna Hardgrave, a contributor to The Irish Times, writes a weekly restaurant column