What a year. The restaurant sector faced relentless challenges – spiralling costs, vanishing margins and a sense that operators were left to sink or swim. Many spoke of the joy being drained from the industry entirely. Yet here we stand, still lucky to have so many outstanding restaurants, trying to hold off the advance of bland overseas chains. Let’s hope 2025 keeps them at bay.
Despite the gloom, 2024 brought surprises. South Asian-inspired spots flourished, bold venues for friend-filled gatherings opened, and, defying economic logic, the fine dining scene heated up further. The sector’s resilience gives us plenty to celebrate. So, here are my gongs for the restaurants of 2024.
Restaurant of the year: joint winners
Allta, 1 Three Locks Square, Dublin D02 A5W7; allta.ie
Some said I was too quick to crown Allta my restaurant of the year in January 2024, but a return visit only confirmed its brilliance. A skewer of squid and suckling pig with lardo came off the custom-built Rhys Allen levitation grill perfectly charred, as did a spectacular rump of beef from an ex-dairy cow. Each bite across both meals dazzled, capped off by a flawless chocolate sabayon tart with cultured cream.
Read our review here.
Achara, 14-18, Aston Quay, Temple Bar, Dublin D02 FV38; acharadublin.ie
Achara is the restaurant I hear about most from friends who have dined there based on my review, and everyone loves it. Thai-inspired dishes cooked over a custom charcoal grill deliver bold, striking flavours: Killary Fjord mussels with satay sauce, Feighcullan free-range chicken thighs zinging with flavour, and stir-fried aubergine in a basil chilli glaze that feels genuinely original. Pair that with reasonable pricing, excellent cocktails and attentive service, and you have a great night out.
Read our review here.
Breath of fresh air award
Bearú, 52 South Street, New Ross, Co Wexford, Y34 YR02; bearu.ie
Bearú is what every town needs but rarely gets: a restaurant with a small, clever menu and zero pretension. The whipped St Tola goat’s cheese fondue, paired with crunchy beetroot, was a load of fun and roast monkfish with tomato beurre blanc and Barbary duck are the sort of mains that are both tasty and have broad appeal. Husband-and-wife duo Dave Rowley and Siobhán Ward have proven that you don’t need a city postcode to deliver a smart menu.
Read our review here.
Coolest restaurant
Sister 7 at Fidelity, 79 Queen Street, Smithfield, Dublin, D07 DW3R; fidelitybar.ie/studio
The vibes at Sister 7 hit before the food even arrives – slatted wood, curved lines, and a sound system so lush it feels illegal. A collab between The Big Romance and Whiplash Brewery, with Big Fan’s Robert Hayes on the floor and Chung Lee in the kitchen, it’s as much about the people as the plates. The Chun Li dumplings are silky perfection, while the “lip sticks” – crisp vegetable cakes – are pure genius. Effortlessly cool, stylish and delicious.
Read our review here.
Most tantalising bite
Ballyfin, Ballyfin Demesne, Co Laois, R32 X5X8; ballyfin.com
Some may scoff at fine dining’s pre-meal nibbles, but Ballyfin’s Jerusalem artichoke cream is dazzling. Topped with pickled artichoke discs, caviar, gold leaf, micro herbs, chicken jelly, and tiny croutons, it’s a masterclass in texture and flavour. Silky, rich, and perfectly judged, it’s the kind of dish you’d riot over if they dared take it off the menu. Open to non-residents – this bite alone is worth the journey.
Read our review here.
The best taste of summer
Gregans Castle, Corkscrew Hill, Gragan East, Ballyvaughan, Co Clare; gregans.ie
Jonathan Farrell, the new head chef at Gregans Castle, distilled summer into every dish on a sunlit evening in the Burren. Atlantic scallops were sliced, cured and paired with rhubarb, fennel and dashi. Roast halibut arrived with a beurre blanc infused with local mussels. The standout? The vegetable accompaniment of a barely poached salad leaf cradling sweet peas and baby broad beans from the garden, bathed in butter. Fresh, vibrant and unforgettable.
Read our review here.
Best fish
Harbour Kitchen, Beach Road, Rathdown Lower, Greystones, Co Wicklow, A63 H670; harbourkitchen.ie
Harbour Kitchen earns this year’s gong for its commitment to sourcing wild Irish fish and smart pricing. You could splurge on halibut with beurre blanc for a special occasion or opt for a simpler, less expensive meal of beautifully cooked cod with chargrilled baby gem for €26. There’s a clear understanding of who their diners are, and the menu is a rare find in a country surprisingly short on good fish restaurants.
Read our review here.
Best value
Fairmental, 10 Grand Canal Street Upper, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, D04 H6K7; fairmental.ie
Valentin Ivancenco’s Fairmental is where great food meets real value. The handwritten menu changes daily, offering gut-friendly, flavour-packed dishes such as the rice bowl: hot rice piled with kraut, pickles, caponata, tofu and house-made rayu; or the heartwarming bone broth with chewy ramen and organic chicken. Even the Saturday brunch is a standout, with a fried egg bap that feels like an event. Low-key, cool and just ridiculously good.
Read our review here.
Where I want to eat with my pals
Andhra Bhavan, 85 Marlborough Street, Dublin DO1 W207; andhrabhavan.ie
Andhra Bhavan’s menu is built for gatherings. With Venkata Manthri delivering the bold, vibrant flavours of Telangana and Andhra Pradesh, the extensive offering includes street food snacks, dosas, biryanis, curries, and thalis designed to share. The special thali is quite a feast, with two types of rice surrounded by 11 dishes, from rich dal and fiery sambal to the cardamom-scented semiya payasam. Flaky paratha ties it all together. A second venue with a cocktail bar has opened on Abbey Street.
Read our review here.
The restaurant I wish was in my neighbourhood
Savoir Fare, Bridge Street, Westport, Co Mayo, F28X622; instagram.com/savoir_fare
A deli-restaurant so good it hurts to leave. Alain Morice’s pâté en croûte is the star – buttery pastry stuffed with pork, figs and herbs, finished with boozy jelly. On the wall is a large map of Ireland, carved from spalted Irish beech, where tags hang from fine nails marking the artisan producers featured on the menu, including Gubbeen, Coolattin, Silke Cropp, and Glasraí Farm. The menu is tight, delicious and perfectly judged. You sit, you eat, you marvel at how this small spot outclasses most big-city pretenders. It’s a place you’ll wish was next door.
Read our review here.
The Michelin predictions
Library St, Ballyfin, Gregans Castle, Carton House and Allta
The Michelin Guide is as unpredictable as ever, and how Library St hasn’t landed a star is a mystery. I had a spectacular meal there in the summer. This year, Ballyfin, Gregans Castle, Carton House and Allta stood out, so I wouldn’t be surprised to see these exceptional restaurants picking up stars when the new awards are announced on February 10th. As ever, we live in hope.
