Did you know that flatfish pull off one of nature’s weirdest moves? They start life as normal, symmetrical swimmers, both eyes happily facing forward. Then puberty hits, and one eye decides to up sticks and move to the other side of the head. Suddenly, they’re bottom-dwellers, with both eyes pointing skyward. Fun fact, courtesy of my husband, Steve. Life lesson: marry an interesting man. Or better still, follow my mother’s advice: “never marry a mean man” – which, really, says it all. He qualifies on both counts.
But back to the fish, their translocating eyes, and how we encountered them.
There’s something gloriously audacious about turning the classic Sunday lunch on its head and offering a seafood feast instead of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, which is exactly what Niall Sabongi, the operator behind The Seafood Café, has done. And seeing that turbot was on the menu, we felt that a smart lunch would be a good start to the month of festivities that lies ahead.
It begins, as all proper meals should, with a drink. A towering Bloody Mary, garnished with an oyster, a sliver of lemon, a half-olive, and a pickle that perfectly balances brine and bite. It’s a cocktail worthy of pause, not just for its bold flavours but for its nostalgic pull. I’m not sure I’ve had a Bloody Mary since my flight attendant days last century, back when they were free in economy class.
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Snacks arrive without ceremony. Small rectangles of toasted bread are ready to be loaded with cream cheese and cured salmon cut into sashimi sized pieces – a make-it-yourself mini open sandwich. Our other snack is a little pile of golden calamari rings with a side dish of aioli to dip them in.
The wine list is short, with Pinot Grigio (€32) predictably hogging the top spot. Not my cup of tea, so we go for the ever-reliable Picpoul de Pinet (€39), a refreshing choice that works nicely with seafood. There are one or two interesting picks on the list, including Tuffeau if you’re feeling festive – a sparkling blanc de blancs for €46.
Main courses come in three forms, each priced for two people to share, determining the fixed cost of the menu. At €35, the hake Kiev is the most accessible option; if you’re feeling more decadent, there’s lobster and monkfish pie (€55); but we’re here for the whole turbot on the bone (€55), prepared simply over charcoal.
The fish is beautifully cooked, the unmistakable smoky aroma of the open grill wafting from the plate as it lands – though, if I’m honest, it is on the small side for two people. If I were being greedy, I’d prefer one to myself.
The sides do their part to ensure we are kept sated. The “green salad with beans” turns out to be spinach cooked in butter, which is fine by us. It’s velvety, rich, and the ideal partner to the fish, bringing to mind that a bit of beurre blanc would be a nice addition to this dish. And then there are the chips – not hand cut, but piping hot, crisp-edged and salted with precision. Dipped into a tangy yuzu aioli, they round out the dish with unapologetic satisfaction.
The dessert, originally billed as lemon posset, arrives as pavlova instead – a reliable standby, with its meringue shells seemingly lying in wait for their moment to plug a gap. Topped with cream and a modest scattering of strawberries and blueberries, it’s pleasant enough but lacks the spark of something more considered.
What makes this menu clever is its structure. The fixed price dictates your choice of main while preserving the shared nature of the meal, giving you a sense of control without losing its convivial appeal. If I had one complaint, it would be the portion size of the turbot – a little small for two. That said, opting for the hake Kiev turns this menu into quite the bargain – especially when you factor in the Bloody Mary, listed separately on the cocktail menu at €14, but included in the overall price.
This isn’t a reimagined Sunday lunch in the gimmicky, overthought sense; it’s a proper celebration of seafood, rooted in tradition but with just enough modern flair to keep it engaging. The short menu seems to change weekly, so there’s always an element of surprise, but the fundamentals remain the same. Expect to leave well fed, thoroughly satisfied, and more than ready for the festivities to come.
And really, isn’t that what lunch is all about?
Lunch for two with a bottle of wine was €149.
The verdict: 7.5/10 A delightful way to spend a Sunday afternoon.
Food provenance: Gillnet fish, Lambay lobster, Gerry’s Skerries, Caterway and Cordelia Food.
Vegetarian options: Always one option, eg roast pumpkin and chestnut wellington or roast celeriac with herb stuffing.
Wheelchair access: Limited, with no accessible toilet.
Music: Dojo Cuts and funk and soul in the background.
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