The Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2025 will be revealed on Monday, February 10th, at the Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum in Glasgow, an event that can make or break reputations overnight. While British restaurants have long secured three-star status, Ireland remains on the outside looking in. With speculation building, will this finally be the year an Irish restaurant claims the ultimate accolade?
Understanding the Michelin system requires some decoding. Not every restaurant listed in the guide holds an award – many are simply included as part of Michelin’s curated selection, a recognition in itself but without the same prestige. Beyond a listing, Michelin has three key distinctions: the Bib Gourmand, the Michelin Star, and the Green Star. The Bib Gourmand, introduced in 1997, is awarded to restaurants that offer particularly good food at moderate prices. It can, on occasion be a stepping stone to a Michelin star, as was the case with Bastible in Dublin, which was awarded a Bib in 2017 and went on to secure a Michelin star in 2022, but that is the exception rather than the rule.
Michelin stars are awarded in three tiers based solely on food. A single star denotes high-quality cooking “worth a stop”; two stars indicate excellent cooking “worth a detour”; and three stars, the most coveted award, are reserved for “exceptional cuisine worth a special journey.” These broad descriptions leave room for interpretation. Awards ignore service, decor and ambience – a food shack is as eligible as a fine-dining restaurant. The final distinction, the Green Star, introduced in 2020, highlights restaurants leading the way in sustainability. In Ireland, only Kai in Galway holds one.
Michelin inspectors, working anonymously across 39 destinations, log more than 250 meals a year, documenting each in detail. They book under aliases and pay their own bills to maintain impartiality. With at least a decade of industry experience, they must possess a refined palate, assess cuisine objectively, and have deep knowledge of global culinary traditions.
Restaurants are assessed based on five criteria: ingredient quality, culinary technique, flavour harmony, the chef’s personality in the dishes, and consistency across visits. Decisions are made collectively by the inspection team, ensuring uniform standards globally. Michelin stars are awarded unanimously, with additional visits conducted if opinions differ.
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Each year there are notable absences due to restaurant closures or significant changes. Wild Honey Inn in Co Clare, long regarded as one of Ireland’s best gastropubs, has now shut its doors and will no longer feature. Eipic in Belfast, which previously held a Michelin star, has also closed. Another possible loss is the Cliff House in Ardmore, Co Waterford, which would have required a further inspection following the departure of chef Tony Parkin, and the time frame to do this may have been too tight. Michelin is known for re-evaluating restaurants following key personnel changes, and if they find standards have slipped, the star could be removed.
Lignum in Bullaun, east Galway, has been drawing increasing attention from the Michelin Guide this year, particularly for its focus on wood-fired cooking. Built around a fire-driven approach using embers from kiln-dried birch, ash, and oak, it offers a €145, 10-course tasting menu showcasing seasonal Irish and Italian ingredients. Since opening in 2017, it has been widely tipped for a Michelin star.
Lignum is led by Danny Africano in the kitchen and his wife, Molly Keane, running front of house. It pairs its ambitious cooking with a beautifully designed diningroom. With Enda McEvoy’s Loam now closed, JP McMahon’s Aniar is Galway’s only remaining Michelin-starred restaurant. Galway is primed for a second one, and this could well be the year that Lignum claims the accolade.
There is considerable speculation about who else might secure a Michelin star, particularly restaurants that have had a change of chef. Ballyfin received three Michelin Keys, a new award that places it among the world’s top hotels. Chef Richard Picard-Edwards, who has extensive Michelin starred experience, joined Ballyfin as executive head chef in April 2023 from the Mandarin Oriental Bittescombe Lodge, and is serving benchmark Michelin-level food on a €145, eight-course menu. When I visited, the Jerusalem artichoke cream was a standout dish, with precisely cut pickled artichoke, caviar, gold leaf, micro herbs, and croutons sitting on top of a silky cream, with umami-rich chicken jelly.
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The listing on the Michelin website describes Ballyfin as offering an exceptional dining experience that matches its luxurious setting, highlighting the kitchen’s technical precision and consistently high standards. With polished, attentive service completing the picture, things are looking very positive for them.
Another stunning restaurant and strong contender is the Morrison Room at Carton House, where Adam Nevin (ex The Grill at The Dorchester, The Hand and Flowers and The Westbury in London) delivers a textbook Michelin experience. You’ll find plenty of luxury ingredients on his €110, eight-course tasting menu. The barbecued lobster tail was a highlight when I visited.
Jonathan Farrell, formerly of Bastible in Dublin, spent time at top Copenhagen restaurants – including Amass and Relæ – before working at Simon Rogan’s three-star L’Enclume in England’s Lake District. Since taking over as head chef at Gregans Castle last year, he has been firmly on Michelin’s radar. With The Wild Honey Inn now closed, there’s one star fewer in Co Clare, which could well be heading his way. However, there has been little talk of it on the guide’s social media, so maybe it won’t be this year.
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Meanwhile, Alex Greene and Bronagh McCormick, formerly head chef and general manager of the defunct Eipic, have taken the helm at The Buck’s Head Inn in Dundrum, Co Down. With their combined expertise, they are elevating the offering, pairing Greene’s skill with top-quality local produce on an a la carte menu that reflects his talent. This is one to watch.
There are a few restaurants that have been receiving increased attention from Michelin inspectors. Mae in Dublin has had multiple visits, which has speculation going, and not surprisingly, Alta, known for its focus on wood-fired cooking, has also been added to the Michelin listings. Landline at Park Hotel in Kenmare is another possibility. It was recently added to the guide.
One of the biggest questions leading into this year’s announcement is whether Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen can achieve three-star status. London’s Ledbury, which had long been seen as one of the city’s best restaurants, finally secured three stars last year. Chapter One is in a similar position – highly respected, extensively visited by Michelin inspectors, and widely praised by top chefs. However, Michelin has yet to award three stars to any Irish restaurant, and whether this will be the year they break that pattern is uncertain.
Last year, Michelin’s chief inspector revealed little but confirmed that Chapter One remains under close scrutiny, with inspectors closely monitoring its evolution. He hinted that once everything aligns, it will join the ranks of three-star restaurants.
“To become a three-star restaurant is to basically say that this is one of the best restaurants in the world. It’s a restaurant that is going to provide an incredible experience. Not only just the sophistication and originality and personality of the cuisine, but there’s also everything else that goes with it,” he said. “So when we make these decisions – and the inspectors absolutely love seeing a new restaurant join the family of three-star restaurants – we have to be very, very sure of our decision.”
Terre in Castlemartyr, which was awarded two stars last year, may also have its sights set on the highest accolade. Given the difficulty of making the leap from two stars to three, it may take another few years of sustained excellence before it reaches that level. Similarly, Liath and Dede, both currently at two stars, are undoubtedly aiming for the ultimate accolade. However, the bar for three stars is extraordinarily high, and securing the award requires consistently superlative cooking.
While some restaurants are widely expected to receive a Michelin star, others seem to be repeatedly overlooked. Library St, Dax, Uno Mas and Forest Avenue are four of the most talked-about omissions. Many in the industry argue that if these restaurants were in London, they would already have a star. Michelin’s choices often spark debate, and if these names remain absent again this year, it will only add to the perception that certain deserving restaurants are being ignored.
While the focus tends to be on new one-star recipients and potential three-star elevations, the step from one to two stars is also a significant achievement. Adare Manor and Mount Juliet are two establishments that may be in contention for a second star, though they remain outside bets. Michelin’s decisions in this category are often difficult to predict, as the criteria for moving from one to two stars involve an extra level of finesse and consistency.
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Despite its critics, the Michelin Guide remains a powerful influence in the restaurant industry. A star, or even a listing, can drive bookings, raise a restaurant’s profile, and draw international attention. While some dismiss it as outdated, its influence is undeniable. Even those who claim indifference feel its impact – whether through a surge in reservations after an award or the frustration of being overlooked.
Michelin is famously secretive about its process, and surprises are always possible. However, one thing is certain – on February 10th, the future of Irish fine dining will take another step forward, and the country’s top chefs will be watching closely to see who is in, who is out, and who has finally reached the pinnacle of culinary recognition.
Ireland’s Michelin-star restaurants
Two stars
- Chapter One, Parnell Square, Dublin 1
- Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Merrion Hotel, Dublin 2
- Liath, Blackrock, Co Dublin
- Terre, Castlemartyr Hotel, Co Cork
- Dede, Baltimore, Co Cork
One star
- Glovers Alley, Fitzwilliam Hotel, Dublin 2
- D’Olier Street, Dublin 2
- Bastible, Leonards Corner, Dublin 8
- Variety Jones, Thomas Street, Dublin 8
- Campagne, Kilkenny city
- Lady Helen, Mount Juliet Estate, Kilkenny
- The Bishop’s Buttery, Cashel Palace Hotel, Tipperary
- House, Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore, Co Waterford
- Aniar, Galway city
- The Oak Room, Adare Manor, Co Limerick
- Homestead Cottage, Doolin, Co Clare
- Bastion, Kinsale, Co Cork
- Chestnut, Ballydehob, Co Cork
- The Muddlers Club, Warehouse Lane, Belfast
- OX, Oxford Street, Belfast
Green star
- Kai, Galway city
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