What’s on offer?
Jess D’Arcy and Killian Durkin have teamed up with Martin McLoughlin of Nicky’s Plaice in Howth, Co Dublin, to run a summery pop-up, serving lobster rolls and bánh mì. The word is that Eton Mess is about to land on the menu too. D’Arcy and Durkin, who between them have worked in Etto, Chapter One and Thornton’s, are the people behind Mamó in Howth and Margadh RHA in Ely Place. Martin is the son of Nicky McLoughlin, who recently turned 90 and owns the renowned fishmongers at the end of Howth Pier. The pop-up is inside the door in the fishmonger’s, so you can pick up some fresh fish for dinner while you’re there.
Much of the lobster is landed by Steven Farren, and the fish comes from local boats. There are plenty of places to sit to enjoy your rolls – on the pier or in the park nearby – although the seagulls swoop here with determination. You need to be on your guard for thievery.
What did we order?
One lobster roll and one monkfish bánh mì.
How was the service?
The staff were very pleasant. We ordered at the counter and waited while our rolls were made up.
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Was the food nice?
The lobster roll was not quite what you would get in Maine, the home of great lobster rolls. A large amount of celery and cucumber tossed in mayo was piled into the roll before it was topped with pieces of lobster. I think we may have been unlucky in what we got, as on Instagram, it looked like others fared considerably better. There were no chunks of lobster from the claw or tail piled into our roll, just leg meat and not enough of it. The celery salad was nice, but there was too much of it. There were crispy shallots scattered on top, a nice textural touch, but not what you would get on the classic original.
The bánh mì was good. Slices of monkfish marinated in a Vietnamese-inspired dressing of lime leaf, galangal and ginger ran the length of a crusty sourdough baguette. They were topped with shredded carrot, radish, long slices of cucumber, peanuts and chopped coriander.
What about the packaging?
All of the packaging is brown cardboard, which is recyclable when clean.
What did it cost?
€32.50 for lunch for two people: lobster roll, €18; and bánh mì, €14.50.
Where does it deliver?
Takeaway only. Open 11am-4pm Thursday-Sunday.
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Would I order it again?
I’d be happy to give the lobster roll another chance as I think I was unlucky, and would definitely be back for the bánh mì.
