A few months ago, I wrote about the new independent wine shops that are springing up around Dublin and elsewhere. However, these were not the first such ventures. There was a time when retailers felt obliged to offer beer and spirits in order to run a successful business. This required a full off-licence, and these licences were very expensive to buy. It is only over the last 30 years that wine-only shops have appeared.
Of the more established Dublin wine shops such as Morgans, Findlater, Carvill’s and others, Mitchell & Son and Searson’s are probably the only two remaining traditional wine merchants. This week, I feature three established retailers from different parts of the city, all at least 10 years old. There are many more, including the Wicklow Wine Co, which celebrates its 25th birthday this year, and The Vintry in Dublin 6, which opened its doors in 1991.
Green Man Wines in Terenure, Dublin 6W is the kind of shop that everyone wishes was in their neighbourhood. It has a fantastic selection of wines, friendly knowledgeable staff, regular tastings and nice food too. David Gallagher and his wife Claire O’Boyle Gallagher opened the shop 10 years ago. They met while working in Oddbins in Blackrock, Co Dublin. He went on to become wine director in Fallon & Byrne, and then retail manager with Berry Brothers & Rudd in Harry Street, Dublin 2. She had worked with Mitchell & Son while in college and after Oddbins began working with Le Caveau, the leading importer of Natural and Organic Wines. Sadly, Claire died in 2020.
“From day one, we wanted to offer a range of wines that excite and have real personality,” says Gallagher. “We have a strong focus on organic, biodynamic, sustainable and “natural” wines that sit alongside classics from stellar producers. We always wanted to offer a place that was unpretentious and relaxed, and this remains true today.”
RM Block
The Green Man range covers all tastes, with a preference for European wines. Prepare to find yourself salivating if you are a fan of Beaujolais, Burgundy and the Loire Valley. The couple opened a wine bar at the same time as the shop, with 28 seats so customers could come in and enjoy a glass of something interesting alongside tasty nibbles”.
Green Man now has a full kitchen offering hot and cold dishes, usually small plates. You can drink any bottle of wine off the shelf for a €15 surcharge, which enables you to enjoy more expensive wines at bargain prices. “We try to give a bit of value when we can”, says Gallagher. There are regular tastings, with different themes, usually costing €80-€100 as well as wine dinners, and pop-ups with guest chefs. The regular chef is Dan Smith, formerly of Airfield Estate.
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“This [food] part of the business has captured the imagination of the locals and has grown over the years, picking up several awards. . GMW is now an integral part of the D6 community with a strong local trade as well as being a destination for wine lovers from further afield.”
If you are wondering, Green Man refers to the pedestrian lights right outside the door, while also symbolising the business’s commitment to sustainable wines.
David Gallagher’s wine pick
Jean Foillard, Morgon “Cote du Py” 2023, Beaujolais, France €42-44, 13.5%
This is the wine that stopped me in my tracks when I first tasted it in 2008. From one of the best producers in Beaujolais, this is more than simple juicy Bo-Jo and more like elegant pinot noir from Chambolle Musigny. It is a wine that consistently overdelivers. From an ancient, dormant, volcanic site, this lively, fresh red has layers of flavour, energy and digestibility. I love this from bottles, magnums and bigger. It’s on the table most Christmas days as it’s super with turkey and all the other accruements.
Available from Blackrock Cellars, Do Dublin; Fallon & Byrne, Dublin 2; L’Atitude 51, Cork; LeCaveau.ie; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6; 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin; Whelehans, Loughlinstown; World Wide Wines, Waterford
Terroirs in Donnybrook, Dublin 4, celebrated its 30th anniversary last year. Françoise Gilley is from Saumur in the Loire valley and her husband, Séan Gilley, from Clontarf in Dublin. The couple met when she travelled to Dublin as part of internship in a course on international business with a focus on food and wine. Séan was working for one of the leading off-licences in the capital at the time. She then spent two years working in the Napa Valley in California before returning to Dublin.
In November 1994, the Gilleys launched what they believe to be the first wine-only bespoke shop in Ireland. From the start, they decided to work directly with quality producers. Today, they have more than 150 exclusive wines on their books, most hailing from France.
Business has changed completely since 1994, says Séan. “Customers are certainly a lot more knowledgeable about wine than 30 years ago as a result of their travels. They are also a lot more well-informed about food and wine in general. The vibrant Irish restaurant scene has helped tremendously. Nowadays, they understand that wine is much more than a liquid in the glass and we are very pleased to have helped shift this perception in Ireland. They have become savvier about wine. Of course, the internet and our website have revolutionised the way people buy and learn about wine.”
While local trade is hugely important to Terroirs, its customer base is very large and includes clients all over Ireland and Europe. “They might not necessarily come to visit the shop, but they chat with us over the phone and trust us to select their wines. We ship nationwide and to Europe. The general tastes of wine drinkers are also changing and moving towards more approachable wines, ready to drink now – rare are clients who cellar their wines these days.”
Terroirs is a small shop packed wall to wall with wines and a selection of foods. Most of the wines on sale are imported directly by the couple. The range is impeccably chosen with a string of exquisite, handpicked wines from small producers. The focus is on France, but other countries are represented too. Wines of this quality don’t come cheap, but Terroirs offers plenty of choice around €20 or less. It also imports some very tasty foods from artisan producers. Last year, Françoise was made a Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole by the French government, a very prestigious recognition that her father had also received.
The Gilleys’ wine pick
Château Les Charmettes 2019, Famille Trocard, a Bordeaux Supérieur, Merlot 80%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, Cabernet Franc 10%, 14%, €15.95 (down from €19.95)
Dense, full-bodied and loaded with sun-kissed black plum and blackcurrant flavours. Pillowy and tasty tannins give this rich, plump Merlot a seductive structure. Grapes are grown on gravelly soil near Saint Emilion. Aged 18 months in barrels, it’s harmonious, round and extremely supple. Charming and voluptuous. A solid choice for the festive season ahead and a cracking value.
Available from Terroirs in Dublin 4
“I’m 84 and still going – I’m too old to retire,” says Tommy Cullen of Jus de Vine in Portmarnock, Co Dublin. He and his daughter Julie Cullen run the large shop, which has a full off-licence selling beers and spirits as well as having one of the best range of wines in the country. Jus de Vine has failed to win an annual Noffla award only twice in its long history.
So how does the father-daughter relationship work? “I don’t know anything different. I’ve been working with him since I was about 13 stocking shelves, always by his side. It kept me out of a lot of trouble”, says Julie, laughing.
“I’m 50 years in the off trade,” says Tommy. “When we started it was all European wines – mainly Liebfraumilch, Mateus Rosé, and Valpolicella. Now our customers have around 1,000 different wines from all over the world to choose from. We think Spain and Italy offer the best value at the moment, and we sell a lot of both.
“Our customers are very knowledgeable; they know more than us these days. They are demanding, always looking for value but they’ll always try something new if we recommend it.”
Prices in Jus de Vine are keen, with regular bargains on the shop floor. The pair are very good at negotiating bulk discounts, which are then passed on to the customer. The mouth-watering range of fine wines, held in an air-conditioned room at the back of the shop, must be one of the best in the country.
The key to their success is simple according to Tommy. “Quality, value, service and a bit of a smile – despite my reputation for being very grumpy!”
The Cullens’ wine pick
Mâcon-Uchizy, Domaine Talmard 2024, 13.5%, €20-23
“It has been one of our best sellers for a long time now,” says Tommy. “It is an unoaked chardonnay that pleases everyone – even people who think they don’t like chardonnay.”
Available from Jus de Vin, Portmarnock, Co Dublin; Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin; Higgins, Dublin 14; McHugh’s, Dublin 5; Martins, Dublin 3; Redmonds, Dublin 6; 64 Wine
