From Ballyhaunis, Roisín Curley celebrates 10 years making wine in Burgundy this year. She still works part-time as a pharmacist in the family business.
“I have one foot in Burgundy and one in Ballyhaunis” she says. “I love both. I spend August to November in France and visit every month too.” In 2023 she made 14 different wines. “I am a workaholic and I love it.” She says she also has “a spinal cord of loyal close family and friends who help make it happen”.
Did she find it difficult as a woman and foreigner to be accepted in Burgundy, a very traditional winemaking region? “I thought it would be a challenge, but everyone has been so nice and so helpful. Being a woman, it is harder. But everything in life is harder as a woman; you always have to prove yourself a little bit more.”
Formerly a sommelier in top restaurants straddling three continents, during lockdown Brigid O’Hora moved from Dublin to Achill Island with her young triplets where she began her hugely successful Bridey’s Wine Chats profile on Instagram. Last year her book The Home Sommelier was published.
“Our family home is in Achill, so I have been going down there since I was a child. To be honest, I tired of the rat race. We were originally here for six months to save for a house but after three months something in me said ‘no, I’m staying here'.”
“I fell pregnant and that’s when I started online. I now work with an importer but I’m still doing my own stuff promoting the book and doing Instagram. It keeps me in touch with everyday people, which is what I love.”
Originally from Co Down, Sinéad Cabot moved to Westport 20 years ago. Since then, with her husband Liam, she has been running a firm of wine importers in Mayo, while growing grapes and making critically acclaimed wine in Slovenia.
“I’ve worked in wine for 25 years: from retailing to importing to winemaking in Slovenia. I can start the day wearing wellies in the vineyard and end it by wearing high heels at an event presenting our wines. It’s a great life. As well as a certain amount of physicality, winemaking calls for intuition, multitasking and a holistic approach – things we women have in spades.”
Like many people, Maureen O’Hara didn’t set out to pursue a career in wine. “The closest connection Killala has with wine is that French ships landed there in 1798. At the last minute, I chose a business degree rather than home economics teacher training. I think part of me wanted to see the bright lights of Dublin.
[ ‘She has an amazing nose’: Ireland’s female sommeliers on the changing industryOpens in new window ]
“I was a marketing manager for many years. Wine courses gave me confidence dealing with customers and suppliers. In 2010, I set up Premier Wine Training. One aspect I really enjoy is food and wine pairing. My initial love of food and teaching has come together.
“I love the fact that wine education empowers people to do their job well. Students have gone on to run wineries, write wine articles, and everything in between. When I set up Premier Wine Training, some were sceptical that I could earn a living from it. Wine education is stronger now than ever. I could do more but would need a suitable partner.”
Roka Furmint 2022, Kog, Slovenia, Organic
12%, €32
Sinéad Cabot: “A wine that both energises and soothes. A broad palate of preserved lemon with shimmering acidity that finishes with a salty lick which just makes me … well, thirsty.”
From The Wine Grove, Castlebar; Daróg Wine Bar, Galway; 64 Wine, Glasthule
Rafael Palacios Godelo Louro 2023
14%, €27-30
Brigid O’Hora (coincidentally this was one of my “best value” wines of the year choices): “So mineral, so mouth filling I love it; I adore it.”
From Blackrock Cellar; Lilith, D7; Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Green Man, D6; Baggot Street Wines; Pinto, D9; Martin’s, D3; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock
Castelnau de Suduiraut 2022, Sauternes
14%, €19.95 for a ½ bottle
Maureen O’Hora: “My favourite wine depends on what I’m eating, but Castelnau de Suduiraut Sauternes, a super ‘second’ wine from a top estate, is a real treat with desserts.”
From Celtic Whiskey Shop, D1; The Vintry, D6; McHugh’s, D5
Beaune “Les Prévoles” 2022 Róisín Curley
12.5%, €69-75
Róisín Curley: “A pure red fruit expression of strawberry and raspberry nuanced with spice and hints of forest floor on the lingering finish. The acidity is bright and fresh, and the tannins are typically silky. It is showing beautifully right now. Each time I have tasted it recently it has been an absolute delight.”
From Redmonds, D6; Pinto Wines, D9; Mitchell and Son, D1, D2; Sandycove; Green Man, D6; thenudewineco.ie; Baggot Street Wines; Gibneys, Malahide; Deveney’s, D14; Drinkstore, D7; Eldons, Clonmel; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Sweeneys, D3; theallotment.ie
