Today a look at garnacha, once the second most popular grape variety for wine in the world. Figures show that it has slipped to seventh place, mainly due to uprooting schemes in Spain and France. Yet over the last few years, garnacha (or grenache in France) has become distinctly fashionable.
Garnacha is a Spanish, or more accurately Aragónese variety that spread throughout most of Spain, including Rioja, and the south of France, including Languedoc-Roussillon and the Southern Rhône, where it is usually blended with other grape varieties. In Sardinia, it is known as cannonau. I should probably call it garnacha negra, as there are also two mutations, white grenache and pink grenache.
Wine made from garnacha is typically light in colour, aromatic, relatively high in alcohol, with soft tannins and sweet ripe fruit. It can also have an appealing spiciness. Much, however, depends on where the vines are grown. Garnacha grown in cooler sites can be deeper in colour, lower in alcohol and more elegant in style. In the right hands, the wines can be spectacular. I have featured the fragrant, elegant wines from Spanish producer Commando G several times before. They are based in the granitic soils of Sierra de Gredos close to Madrid. The other great name for grenache is Château Rayas in France, one of the most sought-after wines of all.
In France and Rioja, garnacha is often blended with other grapes. Most Côtes du Rhône will contain a healthy proportion. The same was once true of Rioja but many vines were ripped up and replaced with tempranillo. Thankfully some producers are starting to champion garnacha.
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Powerful yet soft, garnacha is great cold-weather wine, perfect with casseroles and spicy grilled red meats.
Pure Grenache 2022, Languedoc
14.5%, €11.99
Rich full-bodied grenache with rounded ripe strawberry fruits and a soft finish. Enjoy alongside robust winter casseroles.
From Lidl
Soplo 2023 Rafael Cambra, Valencia
13.5%, €15.50-€16
Supple juicy ripe dark fruits with light tannins on the finish. Great value for money.
Widely available including Pinto, D9; Green Man, D6; Wicklow Wine; theNudeWineco.ie; MacCurtain, Cork; Sweeney’s, D3; Lilith, D7.
Lagrimas De Bhilar Garnacha 2022, Navarra, Bhilar Wines
14%, €17-€20
Elegant fresh red cherry and strawberry fruits with a smooth finish. Try it with firm cheeses or pork chops.
From Searsons, Monkstown; wineonline.ie; Daly’s, Boyle; Martins, D3; Neighbourhood Wines; J. Caxard, Camolin; Drinkstore, D7.
Izadi Larrosa Rioja Negre 2021
14.5%, €21-€22
Izadi produce all three colours of garnacha. The red is fresh and elegant with layers of red summer fruits and subtle spice. Perfect with grilled lamb chops or roast red peppers.
From Martins, D3; Neighbourhood Wines; Boxofwine.ie; J. J. O’Driscoll, Cork; A Taste of Spain, D2.
