“Soda! Cherche la truffe.” Serge Deszars is instructing his black and white pup in the delicate art of truffle hunting. We are on a hillside among acres of hornbeam and oak. Buzzards are circling in the clear blue sky, and Soda is excitedly snuffling around. “You only go with one dog,” says Deszars. “They have to concentrate – and so do you. Switch off your phone, leave your problems at the gate and be optimistic.” You also have to move fast, as no sooner has Soda nosed out a truffle than he is preparing to feast, and with the finest white alba truffles being worth in the region of €6,000 a kilo, that’s a very costly dog treat.
There are more than 100 different types of truffle and they grow well with oak, hornbeam, lime, cedar and hazelnut. Soda is a Lagotto Romagnolo, but “any breed can truffle hunt. Not every owner can train them though,” Deszars says with a note of pride. Six dogs barked us off as we headed to the fields. “We live in our dogs’ house,” laughs his wife, Adrienne, as she later brings us to an atmospheric cellar to taste truffles with wine.
“Truffle oils are made with artificial flavours – you can’t infuse them, we’ve tried. Even truffle salt, it has lost its taste in two weeks. People will add one per cent truffle, so that they can say it’s truffle oil.” I vow never to fall for that one again. (Arrange tours and tastings with barondelatruffe.com.)
We are on a trip along the Loire Valley, discovering ancient and romantic castles and truffling ourselves into the food culture and traditions of this storied part of France. Rather like a souped-up version of Ireland’s Blackwater Valley, the land is fertile, the river full of fish, and the banks peppered with fabulous mansions and charming little villages. One such is Bréhémont, where La Cabane à Matelot restaurant and delicatessen organises picnic trips on traditional fishing boats (les-pecheries-ligeriennes.fr). We head out with Romain Gadais, who looks like a young Eric Cantona from the right angle, and eat paté, rillettes (which local boy Balzac called “pig jam”), and poire tapée – delicious dried local pears. Accompanied by local wines, and eaten off bread instead of plates, it is hard to think of a more relaxing way to spend an afternoon.
RM Block
At the Château d’Azay-le-Rideau we contemplate a different kind of greatness. Gilles Berthelot had been treasurer to Louis XII, and was good enough at cooking the books to build himself this fairytale of a castle. Leonardo da Vinci had visited nearby, and Italianate influences are everywhere, but Berthelot never got to see it completed. War impoverished the king, who decided to take a look at the finances for himself. Berthelot’s cousin was executed, and Berthelot himself fled to Metz, where he died shortly after in 1529. Today it is owned by the state (admission €16, azay-le-rideau.fr).
We drive through vineyards, past castles of soft gold stone, stopping to explore at picturesque spots. Back in 1998, the mayor of Chédigny decided his village could do with a little perking up, and planted roses. Today the place is festooned and fragrant. Roads are closed to traffic and restaurants, such as Clos aux Roses (leclosauxroses.com), serve lunch outdoors under flower-covered alcoves. Look out for the rose festival there each May.
So much for visiting; what about making like a king – or rather, a roi – and sleeping in a chateau? Built in 1442, the Château du Rivau has been fully restored by its present owners, who also have a passion for art. Large sculptures feature in the gardens, and there are some intriguing – or alarming, depending on your disposition – displays inside. But ... oh! the bedrooms. Imagine thick walls, turrets, huge and inviting beds and a satisfying sense of romantic ancientness, with all mod cons added for your comfort.
Peacocks greet us in the grounds, fanning tails as we wander the herbaceous borders. But nature has its hidden hazards, and it turns out to be peacock mating season. This leads to amorous avian calls into the small hours. It seems a small price to pay. Visit the gardens for €13.50, dine like laid back royalty at the Secret Garden restaurant, and stay overnight from approx €290 per room (chateaudurivau.com).
The Château du Candé has a sadder history. Here is where Wallis Simpson married Edward VIII in 1937, leading to his abdication. She was a divorcée, which mattered back then. The couple had sent out hundreds of invitations, but only a handful turned up. Their hosts were Charles Bedaux and his wife Fern, who had modernised the castle in the 1920s, including such extravagances as indoor toilets and a telephone. Once the fifth wealthiest man in the United States, Bedaux was suspected of Nazi collaboration, charged with treason and died in prison by suicide. The castle and grounds are beautiful, entrance costs from €7.50, and the story is an intriguing reminder of the darkness that tends to linger around all disproportionally great wealth (domainecande.fr).
Alongside the chateaux, we stop for fabulous food and wine tastings in cellars, in courtyards and on terraces. From the delicate taste of the first thin shavings of early asparagus alongside sparkling white Chenin Blanc, overlooking the vineyards at Domaine de Grosbois (open May to September, domaine-grosbois.com); to dipping into rillettes and local cheeses in the courtyard at the Château du Nitray (chateau-nitray.fr), we put the lie to Rabelais’ suggestion that “appetite comes with eating, but thirst goes away with drinking”. The 16th century French writer was born along the valley in Chinon.
Miraculously finding room for another lunch, we stop at Le Comptoir de Terre Exotique, near the banks of the river in Rochecorbon. There, Didier Edon has traded his fine-dining Michelin star to serve delicious tapas during the summer in a charmingly picturesque setting. Next door, I stock up at the huge spice emporium, Terre Exotique, in the vain hope of emulating his greatness (terreexotique.fr).
The Loire Valley also has a history of powerful women. Joan of Arc stopped in Chinon and Loches for meetings with King Charles VII, while the king’s mistress Agnès Sorel had a profound influence, including in rallying him to fight the English invaders. You could spend an age here soaking up the history, as well as the fascinating architecture and gardens.
At a morning wine tasting in the vast cave-cellars of Bourillon Dorleans in Rochecorbon (bourillon.com), Frédéric Bourillon shows us how the first sniff is different from the second, after a good swirl. “Oysters and wine are best after breakfast,” he says with the air of a man who knows the value of expensive simplicity. Still, he came to Ireland and enjoyed Temple Bar on New Year’s Eve, so he clearly also has his own ideas about craic. Someone asks him if he knows Dick and Angel from Channel 4’s Escape to the Château. “We have a million chateau,” he says, dismissing the idea. Time to start exploring them now.
Gemma Tipton was a guest of Tourisme de Touraine. Aer Lingus flies daily to Paris; from there, rent a car or take the TGV to Saint Pierre or Tours. There are networks of cycle paths throughout the area, and baggage can be sent ahead by car (tourainevaldeloire.com)
10 more king-size sleeps
What makes a castle hotel? Turrets, battlements, jaw-dropping levels of luxury, or simply oodles of atmosphere? Here are 10 more stronghold sleepovers around the world.
Ireland
One thing we aren’t short of in this country is castles. From renting Waterford’s Lismore Castle in its entirety at approximately €16,000, sleeping 27 in 15 bedrooms, in the south (thehallandlismorecastle.com); to Ballygally on the Causeway Coast in the north, from €115 (ballygallycastlehotel.com), you could lord your way across the length and breadth of Ireland. As these are historic properties, check accessibility when booking.
Ashford Castle, Co Mayo
The oldest part of Ashford Castle goes back to Norman times, but it was the first Lord Ardilaun of Guinness family fame who really lavished on the building work when he wanted the aristocracy to take him seriously. From John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara, to Brad Pitt and Barbara Streisand (though not together), it is one of Ireland’s most famous castle hotels. The Exclusive winter B&B package includes a welcome drink, spa, golf and on-site cinema access from €244 pps from November 2nd to March 31st (ashfordcastle.com).
Adare Manor, Co Limerick
When Windham Henry Quin, 2nd Earl of Dunraven, was laid up with gout in the 1830s, his wife suggested he remodel the house to relieve the boredom. Cue visions of the castles and cathedrals of Europe, and the extravaganza that is Adare Manor, now one of our finest five star hotels. It’s hosting the Ryder Cup in 2027, but you can sneak in ahead of time for a mere €1,445 for two with candlelit dinner in the Michelin-starred Oak Room (adaremanor.com).
Anne’s Grove, Co Cork
This miniature castle, with just one bedroom, is looked after by the Irish Landmark Trust. Oozing with atmosphere, self-catering stays are for a two-night minimum, and you can bring a dog. From €352 for two nights (irishlandmark.com).
Across the water
Roch Castle, Wales
Built in the 1100s with walls five feet thick, and renovated in 2012, Roch Castle sits at the “landsker line” dividing English- and Welsh-speaking Wales. One of its first inhabitants was Adam de Rupe, a Norman knight who might even have cast a covetous eye across the valleys to Ireland. There’s also an intriguing collection of contemporary art. Stay in a tower room from £230 with breakfast (rochcastle.com).
Loughhouse Tower, Scotland
A Border Pele Tower, otherwise known as a Strong House, this three-bedroom spot was built in 1536 as a deterrent to the Border Reivers who liked to raid the local villages. There is a hot tub and lake, and stories of buried gold. Self-catering, minimum two-night stay, sleeps six, approximately £700 total (lochhousetower.co.uk).
Around the world
Keila-Joa Schloss Fall, Estonia
Built in 1833, and completely restored in 2010, Schloss Fall is about 30km outside Tallinn. With just 21 rooms, and an on-site museum exploring all its history, you’re stepping into a different time and culture. You’re also right on a rushing river and there are pristine beaches nearby. From €226 (schlossfall.com).
Gstaad Palace Hotel, Switzerland
Five-star luxury in a fairytale setting, The Palace has hosted the likes of Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren, Richard Burton and Roger Moore. Marlene Dietrich performed there, and Michael Jackson wanted to buy the place. Open summer and winter only. Winter season starts December 15th; prices from £1,070 (palace.ch).
Castello di Velona, Italy
The oldest part dates from the 1100s, although most of it is Italian Renaissance, and all was restored in time to open as a luxury resort in 2003. Overlooking the Tuscan hills and with its own vineyard, there are thermal waters, a spa and pool, and fabulous food. Rates go into the €3,000s, but if you’re flexible, you can find them from €396 (castellodivelona.it).
