Clothing shop displays at this time of year are centred around a winter fashion staple that will never go out of style: the humble woollen jumper.
But are the garments we assume to be wool really that? And will they have the associated benefits of being warm, durable and, for when it comes to it, biodegradable?
On a cold autumn day recently, I went into a British high-street shop to pick up a new hat. I found one in the chocolate brown shade I was after and didn’t look much further than the “With Wool” sticker on the tag before deciding it was good enough to buy.
On further inspection of its interior label on the bus home, I was surprised to discover that just 11 per cent of its composition was wool, with polyester making up 66 per cent and polyamide, acrylic and elastane accounting for the rest – all synthetic fibres that are not biodegradable.
RM Block
A subsequent visit to the same store revealed that the brand prints “Wool Rich” on garments that have a high wool content, such as 90 per cent; while “Wool Blend” is used for garments that contain between 25 and 50 per cent wool; and “With Wool” tags are attached to items containing 8 to 11 per cent wool.
The EU regulation on textile labelling, published in 2011, does not contain guidelines on the use of such terms on tags, but the regulation is currently under review.
Many would agree that nowhere is the inferior quality of fast fashion more evident than with knitwear, and with most people now conscious of investing in clothing that will last a lifetime, it’s important to be smart when you buy.
Here, Donegal-native and sustainable fashion expert Moya Doogan (@environmentaleadai), who has worked in the costume department for TV shows including Derry Girls and Game of Thrones, shares her tips on how to choose the best quality knitwear.
Buy well
“If you buy wool well, you buy once,” Doogan says. “While initially more expensive, a good woollen geansaí will last for life, whereas an acrylic jumper might last a couple of washes before losing its shape and shine.
“Not only will real wool garments last generations if cared for correctly, but they can also biodegrade without harming the environment if they end up in landfill. And you don’t need to splash out on merino or angora wool to expect great quality. The humble sheep provides us with the same benefits; it’s warm, durable, wicking and breathable.”
Labels
Check the interior label to see what the product is made from. Just as with food labels, the fabrics used in a garment are listed as a percentage in descending order.
Always check the interior label rather than judging from pronouncements such as “With Wool” on the tag, Doogan advises.
“Little tricks like that lure consumers into thinking they’ve found high quality at a lower price, when really we’ve often just parted with our hard-earned cash for petroleum-based products.”
Synthetic fabrics
Modern manufacturing allows synthetic fabrics – such as polyester, acrylic and nylon, which are cheaper and easier to mass produce – to look like wool and feel similar, Doogan explains.
“With man-made [synthetic] fibres, the finished product will often leave us feeling sweaty and after a few spins in the washing machine, become shapeless and bobbled,” she says.
But if wool products, which tend to me more expensive, are not within your budget, Doogan recommends opting for knitted cotton, which, although not as warm, is “durable, breathable and easy to take care of”.
Or if have your heart set on a garment that is made from mixed fibres, Doogan recommends choosing a garment that is made from at least 50 per cent wool.
For items that have a tougher life, such as socks, you can go higher on the synthetic percentage because the tighter weave means they can withstand being washed more often, she says.
Wool care
Doogan’s top tip for caring for wool is to wash it as little as possible.
“Wool is naturally wicking and so is much more forgiving when it comes to repeated wears,” she says, recommending that people wear a light layer between the knit and bare skin that can be washed more easily.
When it comes time for washing, “wool needs a low heat and a very gentle spin cycle,” she advises. “I’ve lost count of the shrunken items I’ve taken out of my washing machine having bundled the entire laundry basket in without checking it first.”
Darn it
Another incredible benefit of wool is it’s repairability. If you’re handy with a needle, Doogan recommends watching YouTube videos to learn how to darn your own garments. But if something requires a specialist touch, she advises finding a local repair service.
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“Not all knits are created equal,” she says, “and this often shows up in the form of bobbling.”
Bobbling happens because of friction, which causes the yarn to gather. “Wool-blend trousers, for example, often bobble on the inner thighs and around the pockets, but this doesn’t mean they’re a lost cause,” she says.
“You can spend a fortune on fancy debobblers, but a great solution is something you likely already own: a razor. Giving bobbled fabrics a very gentle shave will remove the bobbles. Just be careful and go lightly to avoid cutting a hole in the fabric.”
