“There are decades when nothing happens and there are weeks when decades happen”: Vladimir Lenin’s quote comes to mind regarding the state of Irish fashion and the energy coming from all directions at home and abroad.
Here it is noticeable in the latest collections from the 68 designers in the Council of Irish Fashion Designers (CIFD), who have produced some of the most diverse and easy-to-wear winter collections, many in Irish tweeds and linens from Magee, Molloy & Sons and John Hanly.
Elsewhere it is evident in lovely collections of knitwear from Sphere One, IrelandsEye, Inis Meain, Ekotree, Ros Duke, Urban Aran and Laura Chambers (the latter two in CIFD), proving that Ireland is at its strongest when it comes to tweed, knitwear and storytelling.
Sphere One’s collection Dark Romance, for example, was inspired by Victorian mourning attire and comes in muted colours with evocative details that include hand-ruched silk tulle, black rose corsage and pearls.
RM Block
Next week Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who has made much use of Aran cabling and Irish tweed in his first menswear collection for Dior, will make his much-anticipated womenswear debut at the house, and there are bound to be many Irish references in his collection. He is already posting teasing images of familiar Irish linen teacloths made by Fergusons of Banbridge on his Instagram @JW_Anderson.
In the meantime, here are examples from Irish CIFD designers’ winter collections (at a variety of prices) of coats, jackets, waistcoats, trousers, skirts, sweaters and dresses with relatable bags, jewellery and some cute hats, such as a red topper with veiling. Most are in small runs or bespoke orders, in keeping with current concerns about minimising waste and reducing carbon footprint.
Colours are rich and varied – moss, duck-egg blue, burgundy, olive, greige fuchsia, navy and teal as well as conventional black, grey and cream. Dark tweeds are offset with corn yellow scarves and light blue wool kimono jackets emboldened with circular jewellery. These are strong commercial pieces for day or weekend wear. Sharon Hoey’s AndTate shows her skill with dramatic silhouettes that can easily adapt from daywear to evening with adroit styling.
CIFD has had a busy year promoting Irish design at the Irish Embassy in Paris in February with selected autumn-winter collections. A collaboration was also made with the embassy and Tourism Ireland on a series of fashion and heritage videos filmed there in February with Sarah O’Neill of Eadach, Caroline Duffy, Kindred of Ireland, Magee 1866 and Urban Aran, which are currently going live every Tuesday this month on LinkedIn and Instagram, posted in French with subtitles.
Other events planned include a designer panel discussion and informal fashion show at the Network Waterford supper event at Faithlegg House on Friday, October 17th, and a Hollywood and Fashion fundraising event at the Hunt Museum in Limerick on Thursday, October 23rd, with designers Sarah Foy, Helen Hayes, Sharon Hoey and Aislish McElroy in a special fashion presentation. In Belfast in the Merchant Hotel, a Fashion Afternoon Tea will take place on Sunday, November 9th, with Sarah O’Neill of Eadach, Kindred of Ireland and Urban Aran participating.
