WINE: At this time of year, the task is to find well-priced, warming reds to go with wintery comfort food
IN RECENT WEEKS I have craved simple warming stews and casseroles, partly a reaction to all the rich foods of Christmas, but also brought on by the prolonged spell of cold weather. There is something immensely comforting about a bowl of stew simmering gently for a few hours on the hob, filling the house (and my office) with its deep aromas. I also invariably reach for a bottle of red wine. I know that many of you cut out all alcohol for the month of January; I prefer to abstain for the first few days of each week.
The wine needs to be fairly rich and full-bodied, warming and welcoming, but certainly nothing too expensive. If we use lesser (or less expensive) cuts of meat for stewing, the same goes for the wine. Rough and ready reds go very nicely with everything from shepherds’ pie, to beef, lamb and game casseroles. Vegetarian bakes with mushrooms, lentils and root vegetables also call out for a sturdy red.
Regular readers will know of my love for Languedoc wines, and they fit the bill perfectly; in recent months I have been enjoying a string of AOC (appellation controlée) wines from Minervois and Corbières in particular, but other areas too, such as Faugères and Saint Chinian. In addition to the Languedoc, look to the southern Rhône, Sicily, Portugal, southern Spain, Argentina and Australia for wines with a bit of body.
I tend to avoid the really big blockbusters with stews, leaving those for grilled meats; instead look for wines with 13.5% to 14% alcohol, medium to full, rather than giants that assault the senses.
Errazuriz Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, 13.5%, €10.49.
Errazuriz is one of the larger producers in Chile, with a range of wines at every price. I frequently find their entry level wines offer good value; smooth and easy-drinking, with a bit of varietal character. The Cabernet has medium-bodied succulent blackcurrant fruits, and light ripe tannins on the finish. Great everyday drinking.
Stockists: Widely available from Dunnes Stores; Superquinn; Supervalu; Centra; O'Briens many independent wine shops and off-licences.
Minervois L’Amourier, Domaine Luc Lapeyre 2006, 13.5%, €11.60.
From one of the top estates in Minervois, a lovely rich harmonious wine, with classy savoury fruits; smooth but grown up, with a nice dry finish, and some liquorice edges. Perfect with most stews and casseroles. The above price includes a 15 per cent sale reduction; this is brilliant value for money, and well worth buying by the case.
Stockists: Wines Direct, winesdirect.ie, 1890-579579
Domaine Aonghusa Corbières, que Syrah, Syrah 2007, 13.5%, €16.95.
A bit more expensive than the rest, but this is really worth it. The 2007 vintage produced some excellent red wines, including this beauty, made by Irishman Pat Neville. Rich and concentrated with perfectly ripe dark fruits and very well integrated tannins; a wine of real class. On a bitterly cold night, this went down a treat with a beef and mushroom stew.
Stockists: Karwig Wines, Carrigaline, Cork, karwigwines.ie; Eugene's, Kenmare; nevillenicholson.com; Deveney's, Rathmines, Dublin.
