Asparagus is one of the most seasonal vegetables. Of all the vegetables we use in the restaurant, many go between the seasons. Carrots, for example, seem to be perpetually in season, even though their size changes accordingly from new-season baby carrots in the spring and summer to those older and longer ones in the autumn and winter.
The Irish asparagus season, on the other hand, lasts just four to eight weeks. Of course, we can supplement our asparagus with the European asparagus season, as this begins earlier and finishes later. European asparagus is all very well, but asparagus also comes from farther afield, for example South America.
South American asparagus tends to permanently reside on our supermarket shelves, a sad indictment of our own food desires as opposed to those countries’ ability to produce good asparagus. Food cannot travel 6,000 miles and be expected to stand up to a taste test. Asparagus, due to its hyper-seasonal nature, suffers more than many other vegetables. Perhaps only strawberries suffer more.
How to make asparagus with lime and coriander
To peel or not to peel, that is the question. And then, how much do you take off? Asparagus is a form of grass whose bases tend to be woody. So, I always cut at least an inch off the end. Whether or not you take a small knife and peel the stems is completely up to you. I think it all depends on the quality of the asparagus and the fastidious nature of your guests. If they’re not going to notice, then just skip that step. If you’re preparing for MasterChef, then get your paring knife out and peel those little spears.
Heat a pan with a little oil and a knob of butter. Add the asparagus and roll in the foaming butter. When it turns bright green, add a dash of water and cook for a further minute. Remove from the heat, and season with sea salt, lime juice and chopped coriander.
