Kevin O’Gorman grew up on a dairy farm in north Cork, and after graduating from the University of Limerick with a production technology degree, he joined Gilbeys of Ireland manufacturing where he worked on cream liqueur production for a number of years.
It was here that he got his first insight into whiskey production as tankers of Midleton whiskey were used in the production of Baileys cream liqueur. O’Gorman developed a fascination with the history, art and science of producing a great whiskey – and an appreciation of the taste and flavours of Irish whiskey.
When the opportunity came up in 1998 to join Irish Distillers’ Midleton Distillery as a distiller, he jumped at it. It was a chance to work under Barry Crockett, a legend in the industry who was master distiller at Midleton for 32 years, just like his father Max before him. “Barry actually grew up in a cottage nestled amongst the original distillery buildings,” says O’Gorman.
Under Crockett, he learned every aspect of the process, from brewing and fermentation to distillation and maturation.
He moved into the area of maturation and cask management in 2002, and in 2007 took over as head of maturation, sourcing Oloroso, Madeira and Marsala casks from Spain, Portugal, and Italy, as well bourbon casks from the US.
“We take Oloroso sherry butts, made from European oak, and season for two years with Oloroso sherry which then soaks into the staves of the wood. That infuses the whiskey we mature in it, giving it incredible flavour profiles,” he explains.
Even the way the wood is treated has an impact. “In the US they char the barrel, which increases its surface area and caramelises the natural sugars in the wood. It’s what gives you those caramel vanilla flavours you get in whiskey. In Europe, where they make fortified wines, they tend to toast the barrels instead, using a gentler heat. There’s both an art and a science to coopering, and to whiskey making,” he says.
In June 2020 O’Gorman became Midleton Distillery’s master distiller.
“I’m responsible for all the whiskey leaving the site, as well as all the new distillate coming off the still. Midleton is the pinnacle of Irish whiskey, so it was a huge privilege to be asked,” he says.
The distillery’s history dates to 1825 when Cork brewing family, the Murphys, purchased land on the Dungourney River.
By the late 1800s Irish whiskey could claim 70 per cent of the world whiskey market, but within a few years its fortunes declined as a result of a number of factors, including the 1916 Rising, the War of Independence, WWI and US prohibition.
A centre of excellence
“By the 1950s Irish whiskey seemed a spent force. Midleton was only distilling a few weeks a year. By the early 1960s there was only Midleton, Jameson in Dublin and Powers, also in Dublin, left. So, in 1966 the three families behind them came together and agreed that if they didn’t pool their resources, Irish whiskey would be gone,” O’Gorman explains.
We are home to some of the world's most well-known and successful Irish whiskeys
That led to the creation of a combined entity, Irish Distillers. “They decided to build the new distillery here in the 1970s and this was designed to produce the various distillate styles from Midleton, Jameson and Powers. Our entire brand portfolio is produced in Midleton to this day,” he says.
The creation of the new modern distillery in 1975 meant the closure of Old Midleton Distillery, what is now referred to as a Silent Distillery. To honour it, February 2020 heralded the launch of the first release from Ireland’s oldest ever whiskey collection.
Midleton Very Rare Silent Distillery Collection is a collection of six releases, ranging in age from 45 to 50 years old, all from the fabled Old Midleton Distillery. The last release will coincide with a historic event, Old Midleton Distillery’s 200th birthday. These extremely rare bottles sold for €40,000, but you don’t have to have pockets that deep to enjoy O’Gorman’s creations.
“We are home to some of the world’s most well-known and successful Irish whiskeys, including Jameson, Powers, Redbreast, Midleton Very Rare, the Spot family and Method and Madness. All have different taste profiles, aromas and ages, but all come with our DNA and our passion and dedication to the craft,” he says.
Barrel Club Midleton Distillery
This summer saw the launch of Barrel Club Midleton Distillery, a new whiskey club that connects members to the whiskeys and people from Midleton Distillery.
“We were very keen to find a way for fans of our whiskeys to peek behind the curtain at Midleton, meet our makers, explore our history and deep-dive into our production process – from grain to glass. Barrel Club neatly marries our people, product and place,” he explains.
Each member receives a welcome gift box containing a specially personalised Distillery Edition bottle, tasting glasses and journal. Then, each quarter sees a limited-edition whiskey consignment including a 700ml bottle and three 50ml samples delivered to your door, each specially themed and handpicked by O’Gorman and his team at Midleton.
I'd really love to bring more people to Midleton Distillery – Barrel Club is a great way of doing that
Membership also includes access to new releases, as well as a ticket to an in-person experience - a behind the scenes tour at Midleton Distillery or a whiskey blending class at Jameson Distillery Bow St in Dublin. The first drop, in September, featured four whiskeys which are influenced by Spanish oak as part of the maturation process.
Members had the opportunity to join O’Gorman, along with blenders Deirdre O’Carroll and Dave McCabe, for a live broadcast from The Cooperage at Midleton Distillery, where they enjoyed tastings, stories and more.
“It was a terrific night with loads of great questions and interaction. Our members made an occasion of it; some even brought their friends over to join in,” he says.
In December O’Gorman plans a single pot still theme, widely respected as the quintessential style of Irish whiskey. “Before Christmas we’ll host another virtual tasting, bringing the theme to life,” he says. “We’ll have guest speakers and will allow members to have a further peek behind the scenes at our Still House and Micro Distillery.”
At least once per year, members will receive a distillery exclusive liquid as part of their quarterly shipment box. “We will go to our warehouse and select liquid from a cask that you simply cannot get anywhere else – one of our exclusive club perks, to make it really special,” he promises.
“I’d really love to bring more people to Midleton Distillery – Barrel Club is a great way of doing that, connecting with our members’ in-person and virtually all year round.”
Enjoy responsibly.
