Go Walk: Francis Bradleyretraces his first 'proper' hillwalk around the upper Dargle Valley with his son
NEW HAWKINS boots drowned in Dubbin, a PVC waterproof, a back-breaker of a rucksack, too much food and that’s it. No map, no compass, no gloves, no hat, no pull-ups, no gaiters and no idea of what lay ahead.
This was my first proper hill walk led out by my brother – him with everything I didn’t have, including a map and compass and, more importantly, the knowledge. That was 35 years ago and now I am retracing those early, hesitant steps with my son. Our route was the circuit of the upper Dargle Valley or Glensoulan, taking in Maulin, the Tonduffs, War Hill and Djouce.
There was one minor problem: I couldn’t find the start of the walk! I have walked in this area many times in the past 35 years and the last time was 10 years ago with my older son. However, man-managed nature doesn’t sit on its hands and there were a lot of changes.
Initially, clear cutting, new plantations, denser forests and new tracks made things a little confusing. After several minutes meandering along the forest trails we finally found the spot I was looking for. I have re-examined the map and this is the route you should follow.
Enter the forest at the top (western) end of Crone Wood car park. After 50 metres, turn sharply left. Follow the trail for 350 metres and, at an obvious junction, turn right. Take the next left turn and, after around 100 metres, look out for a distinct line leading steeply up through the trees on the right. This was my original route and it certainly increases the heart rate.
Continue along this route in a slightly west-of-south direction until you cross another forest trail – there are easier but longer ways to get to this point – and follow your chosen route up the mountain. Shortly, you break out of the forest to find a new (to me) narrow trail zigzagging up the slope.
As you gain height, you will see a wall running left-to-right and on up the northern slopes of Maulin. Is this wall part of the original boundary of the Powerscourt estate? There aren’t too many walls at this height anywhere in the Wicklow Mountains but it does make for a great navigational aid and a bit of shelter when the elements are raging.
Follow the wall until it is apparent that the top of Maulin lies somewhere off to the left. Break away from the wall and in minutes you will bag the first of the day’s summits. If the day is good, you will enjoy quite a panorama – Glencree to the north, the Great Sugarloaf to the east, Djouce to the south and the Tonduffs and Kippure to the west.
From Maulin continue west on a well-defined trail for about 1km and follow it as it swings north-of-west towards the boggy tops of the Tonduffs.
IN FINE WEATHERyou will have noted the conical shape of War Hill rising across the valley on your left. The best approach to this mountain is from its northwestern side, which means taking a broad sweep around the upper (western) end of Glensoulan, avoiding a crossing of the Dargle and allowing you to maintain as much height as possible.
The source of the River Liffey lies only a few hundred metres to the west as you cross the top of the valley. You should be able to pick up another track as you begin your ascent of War Hill. There are a few good spots for a break near the top of this hill before you begin your southeasterly approach to Djouce Mountain.
You will see old, metal fence posts along the clearly defined trail, as well as a massive boulder feature which used to be known as the Coffin Stone – see why for yourself! Soon you find yourself on the ravaged summit of Djouce. I say ravaged because Djouce is perhaps one of the most popular mountains in Wicklow and the effect of thousands of footfalls is clearly evident.
From the summit continue due east off the mountain and follow the trail as it turns northeast where you join the Wicklow Way. Continue for 1.25km until you reach a fence bordering the forest. My destination was the southern end of the now, sadly, dry Paddock Pond which lies in an easterly direction and that meant I turned right here and proceeded with the forest on my left for another 1.75km.
However, it is likely that you may want to return to Crone Wood car park. In that event, turn left along the clearly marked Wicklow Way and follow the markers for around 4km to within 50 metres of the car park.
A word of warning: we encountered an unusual and unsettling physical feature near to the source of the Dargle River – a bog sinkhole. This measured about 1.75 metres across and was at least 3.5 metres deep. The hole was empty but it would be extremely difficult to climb out of. Go carefully.
Upper Dargle Valley circuit
START FINISHFor my route you need two cars or a pick-up at the end. Otherwise one car will do in Crone Wood car park, Glencree.
DISTANCECrone Wood to Paddock Pond 15km. Crone Wood to Crone Wood circuit 18km.
MAPOS56.
TIMECrone Wood to Paddock Pond four hours. Crone Wood to Crone Wood circuit five hours.
SUITABILITYA moderate walk but not suitable for little feet or buggies. Know how to read a map and use a compass. Dress appropriately and bring along drinks and snacks.
ACCOMMODATIONEnniskerry, the Ritz Carlton or local B&Bs.