WINE:It's not just France that is celebrating a bumper 2009 harvest – the rest of Europe is happy, too
LAST WEEK I reported that much of France had enjoyed an excellent vintage in 2009. The same would appear to apply to most of Europe. As in France, it seems that the cooler, more northerly regions fared better, as the soaring mid-summer temperatures were a little too hot further south. However, it is always important to remember that great winemakers rarely put a foot wrong; average producers are always just that.
Germany
I recently had the opportunity to visit several regions of Germany, and to taste a wide range of wines from the past three vintages. The 2007 produced rich opulent wines; the 2008s are lighter and more mineral (but possibly of more interest to Riesling geeks like myself), while 2009 seems to be a near perfect vintage, with some of the richness of 2007 combined with the structure of 2008.
Italy
Italy is one of the world’s biggest wine producers, covering a variety of very different climates. In the south and in Sicily, the largest wine-producing region of Italy, there were problems with rain and growers had to guard against mildew. Those who did produced excellent wine; others were less successful. Most of northern Italy is very good, and in some cases excellent. The biggest danger is a lack of acidity due to the hot weather, but Friulli, Piemonte and Tuscany all look very good, and outstanding in places.
Austria
Austria has very different climactic influences to Germany, but recent vintages seem to be following a similar pattern. I have tasted a large number of 2007 white wines; there are some super wines here, rich but balanced, with good acidity. The 2007 sweet wines are superb. The 2008 produced lighter, fresher, racier wines, a style I am very fond of. Most are very good, and can certainly be approached with confidence. Some growers argued that 2009 will go down as one of the greatest vintages ever in the key dry white areas of Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal; others are a little more reserved. I was certainly very impressed with the wines I tried. They are possibly lighter than the 2007s, but with beautiful racy acidity, and no shortage of fruit. The reds and sweet wines are equally good.
Spain
It seems that the northern half of Spain benefited from the hot summer followed by some welcome rain in September. Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro, Navarra and Galicia report a large, high quality harvest. These will be wines to seek out. In the south, the intense heat and drought meant that some vines suffered, with grapes drying out before they ripened.
Portugal
There is mostly good news here, despite the high temperatures. The reds are rich and powerful, and the whites from cooler areas have excellent freshness and acidity.
Eastern Europe
My spy in Slovenia tells me that the season started badly with severe thunderstorms, and was then very stop-start throughout the summer. Yields are down, in some cases by 50 per cent, but the overall quality is good, if not quite as good as 2008.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Bajondillo 2009, Méntrida, La Mancha, 14.5%, €11.95.Just to prove that good winemakers will usually produce the goods, here is a 2009 from La Mancha, one of the warmest parts of Spain. However, Mentrida is at a higher altitude, and this is one of the up-and-coming estates. Made from a blend of Syrah, Tempranillo, Cabernet and Merlot, this is rich and powerful, but supple too, with lovely dark cherry and plum fruits. Velvet in an iron fist. Try it with grilled and barbecued red meats. Stockists:Lilac Wines, Fairview, Dublin 3; Sweeney's, Glasnevin, Dublin 9; Liston's Camden Street, Dublin 2; Red Island, Skerries; 64wine, Glasthule; Wicklow Wine Co; Drinkstore, Manor Street, Dublin 7; Ennis's, South Circular Road, Dublin 8; Deveney's, Rathmines, Dublin 6; Morton's, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; Lilliput Stores, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7; Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7.
Casa Emma 2007, Chianti Classico, 13.5%, €19.95.The 2007 may not be quite as good as 2006, but there are some easy, ripe wines from Tuscany, such as this delicious forward fruity Chianti Classico from one of the best producers in the region. Lovely supple, dark cherries, with a lick of new oak, and an easy smooth finish. Stockists:The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2; Thomas Woodberry's, Galway; Wicklow Wine Company; Holland's, Bray; On he Grapevine, Dalkey; Caprani's, Ashford, Co Wicklow.
Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Trocken 2008, Nahe, Germany, 11.5%, €18.95.Delightful fresh, summery wine with pineapple fruits, a touch of honey, and a surprisingly long finish. Drinking beautifully now. Stockists:Redmond's, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; Probus Wines Spirits, Fenian Street, Dublin 2; The Wicklow Wine Co; Red Island Wine Co, Skerries.
Miro Šipon 2008, Ljutomer-Ormož Slovenia, 11.5%, €14.95.Very attractive, zippy, fresh white with a beguiling grapefruit/lemon zest flavour. This would make a great aperitif or partner for lighter fish. Stockists:On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Market 57, Westport; Mount Gable Gifts, Clonbur; the Wine Room, Pery Square, Limerick; Cabot and Co, Westport.
TWO UNDER €12
Quinta da Lixa 2009, Vinho Verde, Portugal, 11.5%, €9.99.A rich intensely fruity nose, with a lightly textured palate that bursts with pineapple and tropical fruits. Slightly fizzy, this packs a lot of flavour into a low-alcohol wine. Great summer drinking. Stockists:Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4; The Corkscrew, Dublin 2; Fallon Byrne, Dublin 2; McCabe's, Blackrock, Co Dublin; Sweeney's, Glasnevin, Dublin 9; Morton's, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; Fresh Outlets; Holland's, Bray; Terrace Wines, Galway; O'Briens, branches nationwide; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend, Dublin 4; The Wine Shop, Perrystown, Dublin 12; Red Island, Skerries; The Gourmet Bank, Churchtown, Dublin 14; Deveney's, Rathmines, Dublin 6 and Dundrum, Dublin 14; Cellars, Naas Road, Dublin 12.
Beret by la Canorgue 2009, Vin de Pays de Méditerranée, 12.5%, €11.95.A bubbly, vivacious young wine brimming with youthful fruits, a spicy touch and light tannins on the finish. This would be great for picnics.
Stockist:Terroirs, Donnybrook, Dublin 4.
