WINE:Cool reds and fruity fizz for summer drinking that won't give you a sore head
THIS WEEK, THE last of the summer wines – a few reds as well as some fizz to keep your thirst quenched during the summer. For outdoors drinking, I tend to avoid the more expensive sparkling wines. Something simple and fruity seems to suit the mood more often, although I will search out a nice bottle of Champagne if the occasion demands it.
Unless it’s a barbecue, the reds should be lower in alcohol, and lighter in tannin; 13 per cent or under is perfect. Beaujolais and the Loire are definitely worth consideration, but Italy has plenty of refreshing red wines too. If you haven’t tried red wines slightly chilled, and I find most people serve reds a little on the warm side anyway, now is the time to experiment. You will find that red wines that are low in tannins and full of fruit taste immeasurably better.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Moscato, Innocent Bystander, Victoria 2009, 5.5%, €6.95 half bottle.A lightly fizzy wine that is tailor-made for summer; this version uses the Gordo and Black Muscat grape varieties. The Innocent Bystander rosé is very different to Italian Moscato. Fresh and rich, bursting with vibrant red fruits, and a lovely off-dry finish. Drink well-chilled with a friend on the patio. Stockists: 64 Wine,Glasthule; Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; Red Island Wines, Skerries; Silver Granite, Palmerston; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Deveney's, Dundrum; Mitchell Son, Chq/IFSC, Rathfarnham, and Glasthule; Sheils', Dorset Street; Drink Store, Manor Street; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Morton's, Ranelagh (all Dublin); Red Nose, Clonmel; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Next Door @ Myles Creek, Kilkee.
Prosecco Frizzante Ombra NV, 11%, €17.99 (reduced to €8.99 until June 10th).I am not sure I would pay €18 for a bottle of Prosecco Frizzante (as opposed to the superior Spumante), but this is a steal at €8.99. Ombra is one of my favourite Prosecco producers, and this is a delightful, gently fizzy wine, full of plump pear fruits. The finish is not too sweet, making for a pleasantly refreshing glass of summer wine. Stockist: Oddbins.
Moscato Freisa Vino Spumante NV, Piedmont, 6.5%, €12.29.Low in alcohol but full of sweet, strawberry fruits, this is not the most serious wine, but I reckon it must be the ultimate deckchair wine for this summer. It would also go perfectly with a bowl of strawberries and cream. Stockist: Marks Spencer.
Les Bulles, Jean-Francois Mérieau, Touraine NV, 11.5%, €19.50.A very moreish, fun glass of fizz, but with a real touch of class. Charming ripe fruits, light honey and a sophisticated note of brioche showing some bottle age. This would make an excellent aperitif, or an unusual but very effective partner for salmon. Stockist: Terroirs, Donnybrook, Dublin 4, terroirs.ie.
Beaujolais Les Griottes, Jean-Marie Chermette 2008, 12%, €14.85.I have been happily quaffing great glassfuls of this delicious, light, rounded red. Free-flowing and fresh, it captures the supple, vibrant flavours of the Gamay grape perfectly. Serve very lightly chilled with salads and cold meats, or drink by itself. Stockists: Next Door, Sundrive; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Searson's, Monkstown (all Dublin); Next Door, Enniscorthy; Callan's, Dundalk; Next Door, Salthill; Claudio's, Newtownmount- kennedy; Daly's Drinks, Boyle.
Rosso Piceno Saladini Pilastri 2008, 13%, €11.A deeply coloured red with black forest gateaux fruits on the nose and palate. There is a light spiciness, and some furry tannins on the finish, so this isn't a wine to drink solo. However, it is light enough in body to go with white meat dishes, chicken in particular. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Thomas's, Foxrock (all Dublin).
Chinon Les Granges, Domaine Bernard Baudry 2008, 12%, €14.99.I mentioned Baudry in passing a few weeks back as one of my favourite producers of Cabernet Franc in the Loire. Since then I have had the opportunity to taste this wonderful elegant wine once more. It offers up some very intense, pure summer fruits and leafy notes, bound lightly by some dry tannins. It may improve further, but irresistible now. This would go perfectly with slightly fatty pork dishes, hot or cold. Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Liston's, Camden Street (both Dublin); World Wide Wines, Waterford; Market 57, Westport; The Wine Room at No. 1 Pery Square, Limerick.
Chatus, Les Vignerons Ardèchois, Vin de Pays des Côteaux de l'Ardèche 2006, 12.5%, €13.25.And now for something completely different. Chatus is a grape variety found only in the Ardèche, a region in the west of the Rhône Valley. This was my first try, and I found it interesting. It may not dislodge Syrah or Grenache as the Rhône's favourite varieties, but it does offer something with a bit of off-beat character. A pleasant ripe nose, light fruits with some undergrowth, and a caramel touch. Finishes well with some dry tannins. Some grilled pork chops would do nicely. Stockists: Red Island Wines, Skerries; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street; 64 Wines, Glasthule; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Redmond's, Ranelagh; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Morton's, Ranelagh (all Dublin); Wicklow Wine Co, wicklowwineco.ie; The Good Food Gallery, Killcullen; French Flair, Tralee.
BEER OF THE WEEK Saint Bernadus Wit, Belgium, 5.5%, €2.99 per 33cl bottle.A traditional wheat beer, made with the assistance of masterbrewer Pierre Celis, the man behind Hoegaarden, one of the best-known wheat beers. A very attractive easy-drinking beer with lively citrus flavours and a lip-smacking wheatiness. Perfect summer drinking.
