WINE:Bulgarian wines are now on sale in Ireland, and some of them will give Champagne a run for its money
RECENTLY, I wrote about the lack of wines from eastern Europe available in this country. Within days, I received two emails. The first was from the Bulgarian ambassador, informing me that one company had started to import Bulgarian wine. This was followed with news that a second merchant was now importing wines from there.
Of all the eastern European countries, Bulgaria has always taken wine exports most seriously. There was a massive expansion of plantings in the early 1960s, and by 1966 Bulgaria was the sixth-largest wine producer in the world. Much of the wine was sold to the Soviet Union, but also to the UK and Ireland in the late 1970s and early 1980s.
Sadly it all went horribly wrong; exports to Russia plummeted as a result of Gorbachev’s anti-alcohol campaign, and we switched our attention to Chile and Australia. The potential is still there, however. Bulgaria has large plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, some of very good quality.
At a recent wine fair in Europe, I tasted a large cross-section of Bulgarian wines. Most were disappointing. However, it appears that the two Irish importers have chosen very wisely. Those imported by Wineonline.ie were super wines – light, but full of ripe fruit, and amazingly gluggable. I know little about St Ilia, but the two reds mentioned below were fantastic value. Wineonline has sold out its first shipment, but I understand a second will follow shortly. Domaine Boyar, imported by Mitchell Son, was the first private wine company founded in Bulgaria, following the collapse of communism. In 1991, the company was launched simultaneously in London and Sofia, and is now the largest producer in Bulgaria, with a very large, state-of-the-art winery.
My second email was from Liam Cabot of Cabot Co in Westport, who runs an importing business in tandem with On The Grapevine in Dalkey, Co Dublin. Cabot has always been keen on Slovenian wines, and imports Verus, which is among my favourite whites. I have featured these before, but this intrepid pair are now also bringing in two sparkling wines from Slovenia.
Janez Isteni was a goalkeeper of some repute before turning his attention to wine in 1968. On a visit to Slovenia, I had the opportunity to visit his estate on the border with Croatia. If you plan to visit Slovenia, he also offers accommodation and serves food. Janez has now been joined by his son, Miha. Together, they are making some very high quality wines that bear favourable comparison with Champagne at the same price.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Istenic Pennina Cuvée Speciale No 1, NV, 12%, €24.50The No 1 is made from a blend of 70 per cent Chardonnay and 30 per cent Rumeni Plavez, a traditional local variety. Aged on the lees for three years, this is a very fine, dry sparkling wine with delicious citrus and brioche flavours. I would certainly recommend it above any Champagne at this price level, and it is better than many selling for considerably more. Stockists: Cabot and Co, Westport, cabotandco.com; On The Grapevine, Dalkey, onthegrapevine.ie
Verus Vineyards Pinot Gris 2010, Slovenia, 13%, €18.99This has a pristine elegance and juicy nectarine fruits with a hint of spice, finishing dry. It is one to try with lightly spiced fish or chicken. The 2010 Verus Riesling is even better, but apparently in very short supply. Stockists: Cabot and Co, Westport, cabotandco.com; No 1 Pery Square, Limerick; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Market 57, Westport; On The Grapevine, Dalkey, onthegrapevine.ie
Chardonnay Boyar by Domaine Boyar, Thracian Valley 2010, 13%, €8.50This is an archetypal modern Chardonnay with medium-bodied succulent tropical fruits, a hint of spice and a good clean finish. Very well-made moreish wine at a great price. Stockists: Mitchell & Son, Glasthule IFSC; McDaniel's, Brittas Bay, Co Wicklow
St Ilia Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Thracian Valley, Bulgaria, 13%, €9.08This was a lovely smooth, medium-bodied wine with clean blackcurrant and plum fruits and a rounded finish. Great value for money. Stockist: wineonline.ie
Merlot Boyar by Domaine Boyar, Thracian Valley 2010, 14%, €8.50A rich, hearty wine with ample rounded dark fruits and a velvet finish. A great value glugger to brighten up any evening. Stockists: Mitchell & Son, Glasthule and IFSC; McDaniel's, Brittas Bay, Co Wicklow
St Ilia Merlot Mavrud 2008, Thracian Valley, Bulgaria, 13.5%, €9.58This was even better than the Cabernet above; light, peppery, slightly stalky, with really smooth, concentrated plum fruits. A very well-made wine, certainly a match for anything from Australia or Chile at this price. Stockist: wineonline.ie
BEER OF THE WEEK
Thornbridge Saint Petersberg Imperial Russian Stout, 7.7%, €4.99 for a 500ml bottle
This is another great beer from the Thornbridge brewery in Yorkshire. Imperial Russian stout is an English invention, a more powerful beer that was able to stand the voyage to the Baltic countries in times past. The Saint Petersberg is a powerful, malty beer with chocolate, coffee and a subtle smokiness. It might be too much drunk solo, so try it with a meaty casserole.
