WINE: Many Central and Eastern European producers have not lived up to their history, but Hungarian wines are well worth a go
THE WINES OF Central and Eastern Europe (CEE) have always fascinated me. When the Iron Curtain dropped in the mid-1990s, I fully expected a flood of exciting wines made from exotic grape varieties. After all, most of these countries had a wine culture going back centuries. But despite valiant efforts by a few importers, it is difficult to find any wines from this region in supermarkets or wine shops.
There are many reasons for this, not least our own preference for well-known grape varieties at cheap prices. At wine events abroad, I have tasted some hugely impressive red wines from Bulgaria and Croatia, but neither countries have much representation in Ireland. I have also written before about the wines of Slovenia, which are well worth seeking out.
Hungary has a long and noble tradition of winemaking, and of all the CEE wines, Tokaji has the greatest reputation. The tsars of Russia were huge fans, and a century ago it was listed on all the fine-wine lists of Europe, alongside Ch d'Yquem and the great German sweet wines. Under communist rule, all was submerged into a sea of mediocrity. Vignerons were permitted to own one hectare of vines; the rest became part of the collective cooperative. Once the communist regime fell, there was a rush of foreign investment, much of it from Bordeaux.
Tokaji lies in the far northeast of Hungary, in the hills that run alongside the Bodrog river. Most of the wines are sweet, but all have a wonderful refreshing acidity that gives them great balance. Tokaji is made from Furmint, Hárslevelü and Muskotály (Muscat Ottonel). The sweet wines, known as Tokaji Aszú, are made with grapes affected by noble rot, a sought-after botrytis that works wonders on sweet wines. These grapes are put into puttonyos, or small wooden tubs. The most concentrated, free-run juice is used to make Essencia, the sweetest and most expensive Tokaji, which is so rich in sugars it can take years to ferment up to a measly 5 per cent. The crushed grapes from the puttonyos are added to tanks of dry wine, producing wines whose sweetness is measured in puttonyos. Six puttonyos is the sweetest, two puttonyos the driest. Most experts argue that a Tokaji five "putts" has the perfect balance of citrus acidity and sweetness. The region also produces dry white wine, usually based solely on the Furmint grape.
Between Tokaji and Budapest lies Eger, once famous for that most manly of wines, Bull's Blood, a huge, meaty mouthful of wine. There have been efforts to resurrect the style. The wines from around Lake Balaton are not often seen in this country, but they too have a great reputation. The best dry whites come from the dark volcanic soil along the northern shore. There is some excellent Pinot Gris (known locally as Szürkebarát) alongside a host of other local white varieties. While not all would aspire to greatness, there are some fascinating wines. In the far west of the country in Villány on the border with Croatia, Bordeaux varieties excel, the two Cabernets in particular, alongside the traditional local grapes Kadarka and Kékfrankos.
Mitchell & Son has a decent range of Hungarian wine in most styles. It is also planning a wine tour of Hungary later this year. Paprika, a Hungarian food shop, has a small but interesting range including some from Gere, one of the top producers in Villány, as well as plenty of Hungarian food specialities. Patrick and Miriam Mulcahy of Ballinwillin House in Mitchelstown, Co Cork also have strong links with Hungary. Not only do they offer guests a wide range of Hungarian wines, they also own their own vineyard in Hungary.
Ch Dereszla Tokaji Dry Furmint 2009, 14%, €13.50An intriguing wine with a forward, lightly musky nose, a lovely rich, fruit-filled centre-palate with peaches, pineapple and spice, finishing crisp and dry. This is great value for money. I would try it with richer fish dishes or, even better, chicken or pork. Stockists: Mitchell & Son, CHQ, IFSC, D1 & Glasthule, mitchellandson.com; The Corkscrew, Dublin 2; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Bin No 9, Goatstown; Nectar Wines, Sandyford; Thyme Out, Dalkey
The Royal Tokaji Wine Company Áts Cuvée Late Harvest 2005, 10%, €18.48 for a 500ml bottleA less traditional style of Tokaji, with rich, textured, maturing barley-sugar and mandarin fruits balanced by a clean, citrus finish that counters the sweetness very nicely. Stockist: O'Briens Wines
Ch Dereszla Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos 2000 quarter bottle, 12.5%, €13.95 for a quarter bottleThis quarter bottle offers a fantastic opportunity to taste a sweet Tokaji without breaking the bank, allowing for two small glasses at the end of a meal. The wine is excellent too, with intense, rich pear and pineapple fruits underpinned by beautiful orange-peel acidity. Stockists: Mitchell & Son
Takler Szekszád Kadarka 2008, 13.5%, €14.99Kadarka is one of the red grape varieties traditionally used to make Bull's Blood. This has soft, smooth, elegant sweet-sour cherries overlaid with a very attractive spiciness. Deliciously different wine. Stockists: Paprika Stores, 6 Ryders Row, Dublin 1, off Parnell Street, paprikastores.ie
Two under €12
Thummerer Egri Királyleányka 2009, 12.5%, €10.99 Thummerer is a fairly large concern best known for its Egri Bikavér or Bull's Blood. Apparently Királyleányka is a variety originating from Transylvania. I found it a very pleasant, refreshing, crisp, lightly fruity white wine with green apples and a little spritz. This would make a great conversation-piece aperitif for your next dinner party. Stockists: Paprika Stores
Konyári Balatonboglár Merlot-Kékfrankos 2008, 12.5%, €9.99 A very attractive easy-drinking red wine with warm, rounded, smooth dark fruits. Stockist: Paprika Stores
