The California Common is a classic American beer dating back to the Gold Rush. Created in the late 1870s, it was also known as steam beer, and was enjoyed by the many flocking to California in search of gold.

By the 1960s the style had almost disappeared until a 27-year-old student named Fritz Maytag bought the struggling Anchor Brewing Company in San Francisco. Maytag revived the traditional and unique steam beer – a lager brewed at warmer temperatures – which is now trademarked to Anchor Brewing.

Anchor Brewery’s rise and success, amid the domination of the mainstream breweries, became the cornerstone of America’s craft brewing industry, while Anchor Steam is hailed as America’s first craft beer.

And so it was no surprise, I guess, that this beer was a favourite of the late Oliver Hughes, the pioneering founder of the Porterhouse craft pubs. When I spoke to him a few months ago, he was celebrating 20 years of the Porterhouse. We sat in Temple Bar and he explained how, in the early days, Anchor Steam was one of the styles that kick-started his life-long love for craft beer.

It was fascinating to hear first-hand Hughes’ story: his determination to do something different, despite the many doubters along the way, how he wanted to create an alternative to Irish mainstream beers. The Porterhouse grew and grew, as is well known, all the while supporting other smaller breweries along the way. And like Anchor Steam, their flagship beer the Porterhouse Plain is a top-notch traditional beer and has won numerous international awards as best stout.

Craft brewing, Hughes said at the time, “is all about belief, integrity, good ingredients – and love of beer”.

It was my first and only time to meet Hughes, who died suddenly last month. As we parted, I wished him the best with the next 20 years of the Porterhouse and he nodded, with a big, generous smile, and shook my hand.

@ITbeerista beerista@irishtimes.com