FOR THE PAST eight months, vignerons in most parts of France have had broad grins on their faces. It is rare that a single year brings uniformly good weather to every part of the country; reports of the 2009 vintage suggest this is what happened.
In fact, spreading the net a little wider, it seems as if most of Europe benefited from a good growing season, and an Indian summer that allowed good producers to make excellent wines. This week, we take a look at France.
BORDEAUX
Reports of a brilliant vintage began filtering out before the wines had even started fermenting, and the hype has been growing since. I did not manage to get to any of the big en primeur tastings in Bordeaux, but most critics seem certain that this is a great vintage in the making. Influential US critic Robert Parker has stated that, in the Médoc and Graves, 2009 may be the finest vintage he has tasted in 32 years.
Despite the economic downturn, interest from this country appears to be very strong. The top châteaux are expected to release prices in early June. The lesser properties have increased their prices by anything from 15 per cent to 70 per cent on 2008. Reports suggest that the most desirable châteaux will be priced at around €9,000 per case or €800 per bottle.
RHÔNE
Reports from the Rhône suggest that this could be the best vintage since the legendary 1961. Simon Tyrrell of Rhône specialist Tyrrell Co. agrees. “In the northern Rhône, the 2009s are a cross between the structure of 2005 and the elegance of the 2006s. It is absolutely one of the great vintages. In the south it was very warm; they are going to be very good, but more like a 2000 or 1998 – big and powerful. There are wines with 15 per cent alcohol.”
BURGUNDY
Conor Richardson of leading Burgundy specialist Burgundy Direct says his first impressions are very positive: “The Burgundians have smiles on their faces. They are sitting on what appears to be a superb crop. The whites are ripe, full, fruit-driven, although acidity may be on the low side. They will be crowd-pleasers, but not keepers.
The reds had it better. The Pinots have excellent balance of ripe fruit and good acidity. In my book, where they score highest are the gorgeous tannins. As good as 2005? I don’t know yet. But everything suggests we are in for a treat.”
BEAUJOLAIS
I tasted a few Beaujolais, following reports of an exceptional vintage. Those I tried were wonderful wines, ripe but balanced with excellent concentration. Some are already on the market. Grab them while you can.
ALSACE
Jean Trimbach of top producer Trimbach says: “2009 is the third exceptional vintage in a row in Alsace, similar to 1988, 1989 and 1990, or 2000, 2001 and 2002. The 2009 could compare to 1988 and 2000. We had fabulous growing conditions, dry and sunny, in August, September and October. We have rarely seen such healthy ripe grapes.”
LOIRE
Loire expert Charles Sydney believes the vintage is pretty well perfect all over, with some outstanding Muscadets, perfectly balanced Sauvignon, and some rich, ripe, sweet Chenin Blanc. In addition, I tasted a range of 2009 Cabernet Franc from the Loire recently. Fellow fans will certainly buy these impressive red wines when the opportunity arises; this is a vintage that will keep.
CHAMPAGNE
Lastly, Champagne seems to have joined the party with a large high-quality crop, and the biggest wine region of all, the Languedoc, looks to have a small crop, but of very high quality.
A number of Irish importers are offering Bordeaux en primeur; their websites include vintage reports as well as tasting notes.
James Nicholson: jnwine.com
Tankersley Wines: tankersleywine.ie
Greenacres in Wexford: greenacres.ie
Mitchell Son: mitchellandson.com;
Berry Brothers Rudd: Jessica.lavin@bbr.ie
WINES OF THE WEEK
Bordeaux Frank Phélan 2005, 13%, €25.99.From the excellent 2005 vintage, a classic St Estèphe, with firm, dark blackcurrants, a pleasing earthiness and good tannic structure. Serve it with rare roast lamb. Stockists: Tesco, O'Brien's, Mitchell's IFSC and Glasthule; Cellars, Naas Road; The Vintry, Rathgar; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2
Saint Joseph Cuvée du Papy, Domaine de Monteillet, 12.5%, €29.95. From one of the rising stars of the northern Rhône, this is a beautifully elegant, succulent wine. It is fragrant on the nose, with liquorice and dark cherry fruits. Stockists: Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4; Drinks Store, Manor Street, Dublin 9; Cases, Galway; thestoreroom.ie
Bourgogne Rouge 2005 Domaine Robert Chevillon, 12.5%, €27.50. Burgundy has a reputation, often unjustified, for being expensive. A Bourgogne Rouge from a top grower is always worth trying. Chevillon is one of the stars of Nuits St Georges. Conor Richardson, who has imported every vintage since 1992, reckons Chevillon's wines are also the most consistent in Burgundy. Stockists: Greenacres, Wexford; Burgundy Direct, burgundydirect.ie
Saumur 2006, Domaine Langlois-Chateau, 12.5%, €11.49.Classic Chenin Blanc yellow fruits and quince on both nose and palate, developing a mild nuttiness with age. Medium to light-bodied wine that would go perfectly with cold salmon. Stockist: O'Brien's
TWO UNDER €12
Classic Collection Muscadet de Sèvre Maine sur Lie 2009, €8.Part of the expanding Classic Collection range exclusive to Superquinn, this is a very attractive fresh, dry white with a light, lemony touch to the crisp green apple fruit. Great easy summer drinking at an affordable price. Stockist: Superquinn
Beaujolais 2009, Marks Spencer, 12.5%, €8.99.Mouth-watering light juicy strawberry fruits. Perfect summer drinking served cool with cold meats or on its own. Stockist: Marks Spencer.
