If you had asked me 20 years ago where vegan food sat in Ireland, I’d probably have pointed you towards a worthy lentil stew and left it at that. Back then it lived on the fringes. It was a mix of the admirable, the earnest and, if we’re honest, rarely reached centre stage. Fast-forward to now and it’s impossible to ignore how much has changed. Vegan food has grown up alongside us, moving from niche cafes to supermarket aisles, restaurant tasting menus and home kitchens all over the country. It’s no longer about compromise; it’s about choice, curiosity and confidence.
For my own part, I’ll admit something that probably won’t surprise anyone: I’ve rarely, if ever, cooked completely vegan. Not through any resistance, but because my cooking instinctively leans on butter, cream and cheese for comfort and depth. Take those away and you’re suddenly exposed. There’s nowhere to hide. Every ingredient has to pull its weight, and every decision matters. I’ve always found that a challenge, and it explains why I laughed out loud/cried when I realised at the last minute that a recent private dinner I was hosting included two vegans. Five courses. No dairy safety net. No quiet grating of Parmesan at the last minute. Instead, I had to rethink everything from the ground up. What gives richness without cream? What creates savouriness without cheese? How do you build excitement across five plates when restraint is the rule?
The answer, it turns out, was vegetables, treated with the same respect I’d usually reserve for a prime cut of meat. I found myself gravitating towards cabbage and cauliflower, two ingredients that have been quietly waiting in the wings for their moment. Cooked properly, they’re packed with flavour. Add spice for warmth and complexity, acid to lift and sharpen, and texture to keep things interesting, and suddenly you’re not missing anything at all.
In these two recipes, that’s exactly what I’ll be doing: showcasing cabbage and cauliflower in all their glory. I’d still love a bit of dairy in there, of course – old habits die hard – but I can promise you the dishes are delicious all the same.
Mark Moriarty’s step-by-step guide to flavour-filled, exciting vegan cooking
Mark Moriarty’s vegan recipe for cauliflower roasted in Malaysian spices
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The cauliflower relies on the slow caramelisation on the pan, in much the same way as a piece of meat would. Malaysian spices are sweet with heat at the same time while the crunch of the cashew adds texture. Creamy coconut ties everything together while adding that creamy element.
The cabbage is another vegetable that benefits from time on the pan – the residual heat will also cook it the whole way through. Natural ingredients such as garlic and lemon are then manipulated with low heat and salt to create sweet garlic purée and preserved lemon peel, the two coming together to provide a punchy dressing that’s great to have in the fridge at all times.
