“FABRIC IS the foundation – she learnt that from me,” said a delighted and proud John Rocha after the enthusiastic response to his daughter Simone Rocha’s show at London Fashion Week yesterday.
Shortlisted for the British Fashion Council’s Emerging Talent Award to be announced in November, the 26-year-old designer sent out a stellar spring collection that left no doubt that she is Ireland’s most bankable rising star.
It was fresh and light and a confident development of her familiar motifs, such as crisp boyish collars, transparent panels, intricate handwork and innovative use of leather. Cy Twombly’s sculptures and images of teenagers by skateboarder/ photographer Ed Templeton were said to be her starting points. The silhouettes were both slimline and roomy, while the fabrics were airy and luxurious, with broderie anglaise, gold-flecked Linton tweed, coconut wools, fluoro embroidered organzas, black lace, and a futuristic tulle trapped in plastic.
“Youthful and unruly” was how she described it, but there was nothing disorderly about the boyish shapes sharply tailored in white lace or the summery broderie anglaise suits worn the new way – dresses over pants.
Standout items included a sleek gold leather tunic and skirt, dresses embroidered with over- size neon daisies, a coconut tweed shift inset with lace organza and crochet tank tops in gold Lurex.
The accessories were winners too: patent leather brogues elevated on wood and coloured Perspex, laser-cut transparent totes and plastic tiaras.
Fabric innovation and tailoring were also at the heart of JW Anderson’s show, another Irish talent developing an international reputation.
Like Rocha, he blurs gender lines, breaking down formal masculine looks with feminine details. Typical was a pinstripe jacket with an oversize bow, trousers with inside pockets turned outside or ruffles trimming a sweatshirt. His stiff suits in baby blue cotton sponge exemplified his use of modernist fabrics.
“I want people to talk about Irish designers,” Anderson said afterwards.
With these two talents closing London Fashion Week, they certainly will.
