Paul Costelloe's collection was the first on the catwalk calendar yesterday, a position he describes ruefully as "a poisoned chalice".
With its heathery tweeds, plaids and flouncy satin skirts, it mixed country with couture in a modern, accessible way. Jackets defined the waist, scoop-neck dresses the hips and highwaymen coats were handsomely decorated with glass buttons or astrakhan cuffs. It was elegant and shapely.
Tailoring stood out, but he kept the focus playful and sexy with short bell skirts and frothy organza blouses in shades of brown or grey. Coats in lipstick red satin or graphic white embroidered black wool were kept in check with patent stilettos and opaque tights.
Afterwards the youngest of his six sons enthused about a grey rose brocade dress with futuristic "Matrix" style collars. Costelloe has credited the recent Golden Age of Couture exhibition at the V&A as being a strong influence on his collection. "It showed the handwork and the craft and I think a lot of people have been inspired by it. It suits my tailoring side," he told The Irish Times.
Sixty-two this year, Costelloe established his first London store in l994 in Knightsbridge and his label is now widely distributed in top department stores throughout the UK, including Harrods.
According to his managing director, Jeff Wood, his biggest turnover is Dublin, where annual sales are over €1 million a year in Brown Thomas. "Within a couple of years we would be looking to match that in Harrods," he said.
Originally founded in the l960s, the Biba brand has been revived with lacklustre success in recent years, but yesterday, under the direction of Hector Castro, a team of young British fashion graduates gave it renewed vigour, relevance and contemporary appeal, hallmarks of its heyday.
This was a lovely, lively collection, beautifully executed, with lots of bubbly skirts, petal dresses, glitter tweeds and knits. A textured red twinset with a tutu-shaped skirt topped with a felt flowerpot hat had real Biba brio. Judging from the audience reaction, this collection is bound to be a winner.
