PARIS FASHION WEEK:THE HOTTEST show ticket yesterday in Paris was for Celine now becoming one of the world's most influential brands, keenly scrutinised and copied.
Minimalist Phoebe Philo delivered a collection at the Tennis Club of Paris that was spare to the point of clinical coldness and if there was further proof that white is the key colour for spring and a white shirt an imperative item, then the oracle has spoken.
Her mix of utilitarian shapes in crisp white cotton, silk or leather was stern and sporty, a breezy shirt with cuffs undone, a sleeveless coat over narrow pants and a hooded jacket that looked like a modernist take on a North African djellaba.
Stripped back to essentials, the show's only concessions to décor was the occasional white textured top, a wrap dress or tabard, quilted judo style. The coolness showed in backless tops and tees of mint green leather and in denim twosomes with a slouchy ease. But what governed everything was a Pawson like austerity that striped silk separates only served to emphasise.
There was a different kind of restraint to Akris's roomy white shirts and clean lined dresses, but its slim denim sheaths, slim double layered jackets and colour blocked separates looked classy.
At Issey Miyake where serious fabric development is part of its DNA, shaded bamboo print jackets and new puckered pleated dresses were just a small part of a very graceful, innovative show.
A serious counterpoint was Comme des Garcon's presentation which explored our relationship with clothes by sending out models dressed not only in abstract versions of conventional items, but carrying more of them literally on their backs.
The most exuberant and joyful of the weekend's offerings was Junya Watanabe's stellar take on Edwardian seaside dress all bouncy stripes, nautical prints and little matelot sweaters. Give this Japanese designer any theme and he not only brings enormous imagination, ingenuity and fun into what he creates, but does it with incredible precision and bravura cutting.
There were terrific trench coats in linen, all sorts of striped maxis and lighthearted anchor print dresses bursting from tight unbuttoned navy cardigans. The effect was airy and summery and models with veiled faces, straw wigs and saucy hats underlined his mischievous approach.
