How to get to LaosThere are no direct flights from Europe, so most people fly to Bangkok, in Thailand, and from there to Vientiane or Luang Prabang. No airline flies from Dublin direct to Bangkok, but several go from London, including Thai Airways (www. thaiair.com), KLM (www.klm. ie), Air France (www.airfrance. ie) and British Airways (www.britishairways. com).
From Bangkok, Thai Airways flies to Vientiane; Lao Airlines (www.laoairlines.com) flies to Vientiane and Luang Prabang; Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) flies to Luang Prabang.
You can take the train from Bangkok to Udorn Thani, then cross the Friendship Bridge into Laos, at Nong Khai, and go on to Vientiane.
Buses and vans go from the Khao San area of Bangkok to Vientiane and Luang Prabang.
Avoid going to Laos by road from Vietnam or Cambodia, as bandits roam the borders.
You can also cross into Laos from northern Thailand by slow boat or by highly dangerous speedboat (not recommended).
Where to stay
Mano Guest House. Ban Viengsay, Luang Prabang, 00- 856-71-253112, manosotsay@ hotmail.com. Situated on the edge of the town, this is a small, friendly family-run guest house
with 14 rooms. A lively cafe downstairs does a great breakfast. For newly-wed backpackers, the Mano has a "honeymoon suite" - a wood- panelled room with ensuite bathroom - and all for $12 (€8) a night. Other rooms start at $8 (€5) a night.
If you want to go more upmarket, try Villa Santi Hotel, Royal Sakkarine Road, Ban Wat Sene, 00-856-71-252157. In the heart of Luang Prabang, close to the royal palace museum and important local temples. The colonial-feel hotel has a fantastic balcony restaurant. Doubles from $70 (€45).
In Vientiane, Beau Rivage Mekong (Neua, 00-856-21- 243350) is a good mid-range hotel near the river, the Wat Seetarn Neau temple and the centre of this small city. It has no dining facilities, but a restaurant next door has a terrace. Air-conditioned rooms cost from $49 (€32).
Where to eat
Luang Prabang is packed with excellent restaurants, ranging from French to Indian to traditional Laotian cuisine. Café des Arts (Sisavangvong Road, on "restaurant row", 00-856- 71-252162) serves pasta, pizza, burgers and some of the best crepes in town. Main courses about $5 (€3.50).
For traditional Laotian fare, go to Indochina Spirit (Ban Vat That 52, 00-856-71-252372), based in a restored wooden house and decorated simply. You can eat and listen to traditional Laotian music at the same time. Try the sticky rice, a Laotian favourite. Main courses from $5 (€3.25).
Nazim Restaurant (www. nazim.laopdr.com), with branches in Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Vientiane, serves biriani, tandoori and curry. Lots of backpackers, as mains start at only $2 (€1.35).
Visiting the jungle
You can book the two-day Gibbon Experience (€200 per person) at www.gibbonx.org.
Green Discovery (www. greendiscoverylaos.com) specialises in trekking and other activity-based adventures. It is good value in some
areas (rock-climbing in Vang Vieng, for example), less so in others.