EMER SWEENEY describes a trip to Ibo, in the Quirimbas Archipelago of Mozambique
THE INDIAN OCEAN hugs Mozambique for more than 2,500km. We went to the remote Quirimbas Archipelago, in the far north, where 30 coral islands of national park, reached by small plane from Pemba Airport, stretch for 250km. It is among the most unspoilt and unexplored island reef ecosystems, and as such it is of worldwide significance.
My apprehension on taking the psychedelically coloured aircraft to Ibo Island was soon dispelled by wonderment at the beauty of these sand-fringed islands from the air, where sea and sky became merged in hues of blue and sunlight, and small villages made of bamboo and straw huts told of a place untouched by the modern world of tourism and resort hotels. Here was a paradise of coral reefs, without electricity, only graceful dhows fishing the plentiful waters .
Ibo Island Lodge is a community fair-trade tourism lodge, which means that the whole enterprise, as well as being a pioneer tourism investment on the island, is run to benefit the community and encourage the development of local skills, so that the people of the island benefit from the tourism generated.
This was once a Portuguese trading centre; slaves were transported and sold at the star-shaped Fortaleza de São Joao Baptista, which has become a museum and centre for the production and sale of fine silver jewellery. The ruins of once beautiful Portuguese mansions and villas are being restored. This, combined with the cultural heritage of the island, has ensured that it is now zoned for World Heritage status.
The lodge is in the rehabilitated mansion that was Bella Vista. It overlooks the harbour and has a deep veranda furnished with plantation chairs where you can sit outside your bedroom looking at the changing view of the harbour.
Dawn reveals the dhows heading out gracefully for the day’s fishing. People pass by, visiting the beach, on their way to and from the market, cycling and walking, and in the evening the view turns to a magnificent sunset – an unmissable spectacle.
Beside the house is a wonderful infinity pool. Lunch is served in the gardens, at tables spread out under the shade of palm trees, lemon trees, orange trees.
The three courses are hard to resist, as local fresh seafood is always on offer.
The local language is not Portuguese but Kimwani, dating from the slave days of the 18th century. Kissinger, Dollar and Harris are Zimbabweans with excellent English who work among the locals in the lodge, which is managed by Peter, Therin and four-year-old India, who goes to the local nursery school set up by her mother.
It is a unique experience to stay in such comfort and style and to feel a connection to the community living there. We went to local shops and houses and were able to buy the most exquisite silver jewellery made by craftsmen who work under the shade of a tree using skills handed down from Arab traders.
This enterprise has been re-established as a result of the lodge importing the silver and selling it at cost to the silversmiths, who make a profit selling to guests and to markets abroad.
An option for breakfast was to get up at 6am and be taken out to a sandbank for a morning swim. As the island is tidal and we are keen swimmers, we jumped at the opportunity to swim before breakfast. We had no idea how wonderful it could be.
Dollar knocked on the door early and brought us down to the beach to collect our speedboat. On board already were a crew of four with a lot of luggage. We hopped on, in the beautiful early-morning light, and headed across the ocean. After about 15 minutes we could see the sandbank rising out of the blue like a mirage.
When we reached it we found a vast island of sand, littered with the most exotic shells of all sizes and colours, lapped by crystal-clear water.
Dollar took us out snorkelling on the reef, where we saw the most beautiful fish and flora. It felt like swimming through an aquarium. It was hard to leave the warm water, filled with dazzling fish in this underwater garden.
All too soon it was time for breakfast – and hard to believe the island would be submerged again by sunset.
To our amazement a gazebo had been erected on the highest spot of the island; breakfast was served on a table set with linen and silver. We had tropical fruit, cereal, eggs, bacon, mushrooms, toast and filter coffee, all served with much laughing and delight, and at a distance the crew tucked into the same with great gusto.
Just enough time to walk around, picking up shells and trying to register the pristine beauty of the place to keep forever in my memory before being whisked back to Ibo.
The lodge can organise a range of activities, such as sailing the the waters by dhow or visiting mango plantations. Deep-sea diving and snorkelling are highlights on this island surrounded by coral reefs.
At weekends the town celebrates at the disco. Music and dancing until late is a much-loved recreational activity on Ibo, along with supporting the island football team
Night falls quickly and early, with sunset at 5.15pm. Dinner is served on the roof of the lodge under the stars. It is a magical and memorable experience. In the distance fishermen shout to each other, dogs bark, you can hear laughing, drumming and singing through the ink-black darkness, and shimmering stars fall through the sky. The strange rhythmic thumping is humpback dolphins slamming their tails on the water as they hunt for fish.
There is no television at the lodge, and cell-phone coverage is limited. Electricity comes from its own generator, which is usually switched off by midnight. So it’s early to bed and up at dawn.
Part of Ibo’s great charm is that it has fallen into decline, and is like a lost city with a history, culture and marine world that feel totally unexplored.
We visited in June, when there were very few guests. Christmas and New Year are busier times, when the weather is also much hotter.
For us the climate was perfect – about 26 degrees, comfortable enough to be outside at all times of the day.
** Emer Sweeney flew to Pemba from Johannesburg, a route served by South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) and LAM (www.lam.co.mz). For more about Ibo Island Lodge, see www.iboislandlodge.co.za
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