In just a decade, Colombia has shaken off its image as one of the most dangerous countries in the world for tourists to become one of South America's hottest destinations, writes TOM HENNIGAN
AS RECENTLY as a decade ago most Colombians would not go on holiday in their own country, so it was no wonder that foreigners gave it a miss. Anyone travelling the roads risked being kidnapped by guerrillas, and a lethal combination of drug and political violence made its cities among the most dangerous in the world.
Now a dramatic improvement in security in recent years has turned it into one of South America’s hottest destinations. Visitors from neighbouring countries are joyfully reacquainting themselves with one of Latin America’s most vibrant societies, while ever greater numbers of Europeans are once again including its tropical beaches and colonial cities on the Gringo Trail.
The main gateway into the country is the capital Bogotá, with many tourists just pit-stopping here before heading off to colonial gems Cartagena and Popayán or a stay at a hacienda in the rugged hills of Colombian coffee country. But this rambling city of over eight million people, perched high up in the Andes, is packed with interesting nooks and crannies.
The best base from which to do so is the old historic centre of the city, known as La Candelaria. Bogotá is many things but beautiful it is not. Like many South American cities, it grew rapidly in the 20th century and much of that development is unremarkable.
But La Candelaria is an atmospheric old neighbourhood with many colonial buildings. It is packed with universities, museums and great nightlife as well as the imposing presidential palace, congress and city cathedral (all around the rather grand Plaza de Bolivar).
To orientate myself I took a trip up the Monserrate mountain which towers over La Candelaria on the ridge that runs along the eastern edge of the city. Pilgrims walk up to the church at the 3,152m summit – the equivalent of three Carrauntoohils – but a far easier climb involves taking either the cable car or the funicular train up to the spectacular views (cerromonserrate.com).
Then for a street level view of the centre I took my hotel’s advice and signed on for the guided tour at Bogotá Bike Tours (bogotabiketours.com). This is a great way to get up close and personal with the city and not just the picturesque colonial centre, but also those parts you are unlikely to find on your own. These give you an idea of what everyday life is like for Bogotanos.
Our group also got a great portable version of the city’s intriguing history from our guide Mike, starting with its founding by Spanish conquistadores right through to its recent troubles with drug cartels and Marxist guerrillas, from our guide Mike.
A relocated Californian writer, Mike is perhaps the best known gringo in town with locals constantly greeting him as he led our small group through La Candelaria to one of the city’s buzzing markets and on to the Moorish-inspired bullring. Along the way he picked out local street delicacies for us to sample while filling us in on the town’s customs.
One of the advantages of staying in La Candelaria is that you are just a short walk from some of the continent’s best museums and most striking colonial churches. As nearly all are free I had the luxury of just popping my head in for a look as I stumbled across them. But two are worth seeking out.
The first is Bogotá’s famous Gold Museum (banrep.gov.co/museo/eng/). Ostensibly housing one of the world’s most valuable collections of gold artefacts, in reality it offers a journey through the country’s pre-Colombian cultures and their religions and myths as told through their golden objects. Highlights include a delicate golden raft that may have given birth to the El Dorado myth.
Nearby is the Botero Museum (lablaa.org/museobotero.htm)which houses many works by the country’s greatest living artist Fernando Botero – famous for his “fat people” paintings. The collection also houses Botero’s personal collection of other painters’ and sculptors’ work.
The museum is part of a larger complex housed in a series of interconnecting courtyards, formerly the city’s mint.
Here you can find works by older Colombian painters as well as examples of sacred colonial art including one host holder which is made from almost five kilos of gold and includes 1,485 emeralds, 13 rubies and 28 diamonds.
The area around La Candelaria is rich in colonial churches, old monasteries and convents, but if you are going to visit just one, have a look at the oldest, the Church of San Francisco, whose simple dark nave ends in a spectacular riot of gold around the altar.
Nightlife in Bogotá is not limited to La Candelaria. There are trendy ethnic eateries in nearby arty Macarena while further north, in the Zona Rosa, there is a scrum of loud bars, restaurants and clubs that attract a well-heeled younger crowd.
But if you only have the one night drop by Chorro de Quevedo Square in the heart of La Candelaria, where the Spanish founded the city.
Even on a chilly Andean night it can have the atmosphere of a summer festival with students sitting out playing guitars and drinking wine. Traditional Colombian storytellers gather large impromptu crowds and patrons hop from one cheap, loud and friendly bar to another.
The government supposedly wants to smarten up these few streets to attract a better sort of tourist.
And it is great that this lively and always friendly city is once again on travellers’ maps. But it would be a huge pity to mess with this genuine and increasingly rare slice of Latin bohemia in a continent that is gentrifying rapidly.
Do not risk leaving it too long to see it for yourself.
Continental Airlines (continental.com) flies to Bogotá via Newark Airport in New Jersey. Air France (airfrance.com) flies to Bogotá via Paris Charles de Gaulle. Iberia Airlines (iberia.com) flies to Bogotá via Madrid.
Where to stay and where to eat
Where to stay
Hotel Casa Deco, Calle 14,
No 2-3, La Candelaria, 00-571-183-7262, hotelcasadeco.com. Comfortable hotel in a beautifully restored art deco building. Owner Gianpaolo is a gregarious Italian who fell in love with Colombia 20 years ago and is a wonderful source of information and tips on the city. Perhaps this is why, as well as tourists, his guests seem to include many of the researchers, journalists and documentary film-makers passing through town. Rooms start at €75 a night, which includes free Wi-Fi and an excellent breakfast.
Hotel de la Opera, Calle 10,
No 5-72, La Candelaria, 00-571-336-2066, hotelopera.com.co. At the very top end of accommodation in the city is this five-star hotel right beside the city’s opera house and around the corner from Plaza de Bolivar. Rooms start from €140 a night.
The Cranky Croc, Calle 15,
No 3-46, La Candelaria, 00-57-1-342 2438, parcheweb.com/crankycroc. For the budget traveller there is a wealth of hostels with dorms or private rooms, the newest of which is the Cranky Croc where you can a get a bed in a dorm from €8 and a room with a private bath for €25.
Alegria Hostel, Carrera 2,
No 9-46, 00-57-1-286-8047, alegriashostel.com.
A more sedate neighbour of the Cranky Croc, where prices range from €7 to €21.
Suite Jones Hotel Estelar, Calle 61, No 5-39, 00-57-1-346-8246. hotelesestelar.com. A well- located, three/four-star hotel, where rooms start at €115.
Where to eat
Plaza de Bolivar. For lunch head here. In the street alongside the cathedral, Calle 11, there ise a series of small restaurants popular with government workers. Pop into La Puerta Falsa (Calle 11, No 6-50) and for a cheap lunch on a chicken tamale washed down with a refreshing feijoa – pineapple and guava – juice. For dessert wreck your teeth on the sugar maelstrom that is a Marquesa Guanaba, supposedly the oldest, most traditional dessert in Bogotá.
La Puerta de la Tradicion. 6-30 Calle 11, No 6-30, 00-57-1-286-6736. For a traditional Bogotá dish (you can chalk the tamale down as a starter) head one or two doors up the street to this establishment and order a bowl of the city's signature dish Ajiaco – a thick potato soup with shredded chicken and a cob of corn.
Casa Vieja, Avenida Jimenez No 3-63, 00-57-1-342-6752, casavieja.com.co.
This is definitely the place to go for a chance to sample from a broader menu of traditional Colombian cuisine.
La Esquina,Carrera 4A, No 26-4, 00-57-1-283-8685.
In the arty Macarena neighbourhood, this eaterie is part of a new wave of ceviche (seafood) restaurants sweeping across South America.
Donostia, Calle 29, No 5-84, 00-57-1-287-3943. This is the best tapas restaurant in Macarena and takes as its starting point the rich culinary tradition of the Basque country.
Hot spot
Colombian music is mindbogglingly varied and hugely popular from Mexico all the way south to Argentina. Two of the hottest genres are the Caribbean styles of cumbia and vallenato. For live music in La Candelaria check out the Quiebra-Canto club (Carrera 5, No 17-76, 00-57-1-243-1630, quiebracanto.com). For a full listings guide to what is on in Bogotá, see planb.com.co.
Shop spot
Unicentro Mall,
Avenida 15, No 123-30, unicentrobogota.com . Huge, shopping and cinema complex; good for getting out of the heat.
Go There
Continental Airlines(continental.com) flies to Bogatá via Newark Airport in New Jersey. Air France (airfrance.com) flies to Bogatá via Paris Charles de Gaulle. Iberia Airlines (iberia.com) flies to Bogotá via Madrid