Go Citybreak:Described by 'Time' magazine as 'the most liveable city in all of Europe', Nantes lives up to its reputation as one of France's most attractive destinations, writes Lisa Crowley
JULES VERNE once said about his native city of Nantes that “behind the beauty of its old stone walls, there beats a vibrant heart, and this is where man creates, discovers and trades – or in a word, lives”.
Nantes is the sixth largest city in France and has received many accolades, the "Greenest City in France" by L'Expressmagazine in 2003, and in the same year it was called "The "Best Place to Live" by Le Pointmagazine. Then, in 2004 Timemagazine came to the conclusion that it was indeed "the most liveable city in all of Europe".
Nantes is a city at the confluence of the rivers Erdre, Sèvre and principally the Loire, and is only 50km from the Atlantic coast. Within the city there are 1,000 hectares of green space, including a botanical garden where the seeds of the first camellias were planted in France in 1829.
It also has a first-class public transport system, according to Frank McDonald who wrote in this paper recently that “everything connects up” unlike the Luas in Dublin. There are 42km of tram lines connecting the city, along with cycle and bus lanes.
The first thing to do on arriving in Nantes is to purchase the Pass Nantes, if you haven’t done so online at resanantes.com. The pass gives you unlimited access to the tram, bus and free entrance to the top 30 attractions.
The former capital of Brittany, it is no longer officially part of the province, since it was transferred to the Pays de la Loire in 1962. Nonetheless, the city’s history is intimately bound up with the Breton fortunes.
On the 15-minute bus journey from the Nantes Atlantic airport into the centre, the first thing that you will notice on the skyline is that Nantes has its own skyscraper to rival Tour Montparnasse in Paris – the Tour de Bretagne stands at a height of 144m, 41m lower than the one in the capital.
If you choose to get off the bus at Central Train Station, you will be able to catch your first glimpse of the very imposing Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, just one tram stop away. A monument to the city’s history, built over the course of centuries beginning in the 15th, it was the home of Anne de Bretagne, twice queen of France and her father Francois II.
It now houses the History Museum of Nantes, with a host of interactive exhibitions for all the family, including a fascinating one tracing the slave trade in 18th-century Nantes. This trade between the former colonies allowed the city to become the first port in France, and a very wealthy place, but it is a past that some people would rather not remember.
If you are feeling energetic enough and willing to climb up to the fortified ramparts, you will be rewarded with a panoramic view over the city, and the former biscuit factory, the Lieu Unique, with its massive, colourful art deco dome.
In this exact factory lies the origin of the famous French butter biscuit – petit beurre – dating back to 1886. The story goes that Louis Lefèvre married Mademoiselle Utile, and for purely romantic reasons, he placed their initials “LU” on every biscuit that was sold. The factory was moved outside the city in 1986, and nowadays the Lieu Unique is an exhibition centre with a funky bar, restaurant, and a Middle Eastern-style spa and bath house located on the ground floor, a lovely place to relax after a day walking around the city.
YOU CAN JUMPon tram No 1 going northwest and get off at Médiatheque, from where you can walk up the short hill towards the Place Graslin, stopping off on your way briefly at the Cours Cambronne – a park inspired by the Palais Royale in Paris, and named after General Cambronne (1770-1842), who was a member of the imperial guard, and a hero of the Battle of Waterloo.
Opposite the Cours is probably Nantes’ finest brasserie, La Cigale, a fabulous late-19th century establishment, classified as a historic monument which was the meeting place for aristocrats and actors from the area. You can drop in for breakfast or lunch, but you must make a booking for dinner.
The area of Graslin is considered to be the 19th-century town of Nantes. The financier of the same name took charge of the development of the western part of the city in the 1780s, when Nantes’ prosperity was at a high, due to the sugar cane and slave trade.
The Natural History Museum is close by on the rue Voltaire, and a small friendly art-house cinema, Katorza, at 3 rue Corneille, shows films in English (look out for the initials VO or version originale).
If it’s a shopping spree that you want, then you have come to the right place, as the main shopping district of the city starts on the rue Crébillon at the Passage Pommeraye, a three-storey shopping arcade with magnificently carved statues, built in the 1840s, which has a host of beautiful facades to admire.
Onwards from the Passage Pommeraye and walking downhill, you will arrive at the Place Royale with its very distinctive fountain built in 1865. It was erected as a symbol of Nantes’ importance as a maritime city, and was almost totally destroyed in 1943 during the air raids.
Leaving the Place Royale by the rue de l’Arche Sèche, take the steps right in front of you, stopping midway as the smells from the Thym Vanille shop, (4 rue de L’echelle) selling essential and massage oils waft around you. You may just have to indulge yourself before arriving at the top of steps to the Place du Bon Pasteur.
But don’t despair as just on the other side of the road at 3 rue Guépin is Beckett’s café and bar, owned by an Irishman, which serves exceptional salads and the tangiest lemon tart I’ve ever tasted.
From here the Bouffay quarter is a short walk across Cours des 50 Otages. The church of St Cross dominates the area with a huge choice of crêperies, traditional French bistros, Asian restaurants, and even a few Irish pubs thrown in for good measure.
LEAVING THEBouffay quarter, by the rue des Petites Ecuries you can jump back on the No 1 tram and this time get off at the Chantiers Navals stop, crossing over the Bridge of the Duchess Anne. You will now be standing on Île de Nantes.
The giant warehouse right in front of you, formerly a shipyard, is where you will find a menagerie of mechanical machines – the brainchild of one very creative Frenchman, François Delarozière, whose imagination collided between the two worlds of Leonardo da Vinci and Jules Verne. The “Great Elephant” stands at 12m high and eight metres wide, and weighs 50 tonnes. A local street theatre company, Royal de Luxe, has paraded the elephant in festivals around Europe for the last couple of years.
Further down the island is another group of warehouses called “Banana Hangers” because this is where produce brought back from the colonies was once stored. This area, on the Quai des Antilles, has been transformed into a group of trendy bars and restaurants, with wonderful views over the river.
On Sunday mornings when the bars are closed and the young people are in their beds, this same promenade is buzzing with dog walkers, cyclists, roller-bladers, joined by the chatter of the birds on the river.
It will be hard not to notice several giant rings which look like they’re actually floating on the Loire. These are in fact part of an art installation called Estuaire, started in 2007, along the 60km of the estuary between Nantes and St Nazaire. Designed by artist Daniel Burren, they provide a rainbow of colour and light up the night sky, giving the impression that Nantes seems to be in a permanent state of celebration.
A visit to Nantes would not be complete without climbing up the hill to the Jules Verne Museum and the Church of St Anne. The hillside location above the Quai Ernest Renaud was where the young Jules Verne spent his summers looking over the Loire to the sea beyond.
So, what could be missing from the city that could be the “most liveable” in Europe? Well, probably a boat ride across the Loire to visit an old fishing port of Trentemoult, and an Irish artist in her studio.
Take the Navibus from Gare Maritime, and for the price of a normal bus journey, you will be on the south side of the Loire, and disembarking to a brightly coloured village with narrow streets and lively cafes within 10 minutes. Here artist and sculptor Siobhan Gately (sgately.eu) has lived and worked for the last 15 years.
This former port, steeped in history and bursting with culture, has it all really, and given that July was the hottest in 10 years, and Ireland has just recorded the wettest in 60, I know where I’d choose to be come summer!
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go
5 places to stay
Hôtel Pommeraye. 2 rue Boileau, 00-33-2-4048-7879, hotel-pommeraye.com. This extremely good value, two-star hotel is in the heart of the shopping and historical quarter of Nantes and beside the Passage Pommeraye. Designer decor rooms with beautiful bathrooms and friendly staff. Doubles start at €59 and the superior room for two/three is €79.
Hôtel La Pérouse. 3 allée Duquesne, 00-33-2-4089-7500, hotel-laperouse.fr. This is an avant-garde yet welcoming building which has been ingeniously integrated with the older architecture that surrounds it. It is very near the main thoroughfare of Cours des 50 Otages, and you can walk straight out of the hotel and jump onto the No 2 or 3 tram. Prices start at €89 for a standard double.
Hôtel du Château. 5 place de la Duchesse-Anne, 00-33-2-4074-1716, hotelduchateau-nantes.fr. This hotel has uninterrupted views of the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, and you will feel that you're a duke for a night on a shoestring budget! It's clean, and very friendly if basic, and a very good budget-conscious option. All doubles with a view of the castle €50.
L'Hôtel. 6 rue Henri IV, 00-33-2-4029-3031, nanteshotel.com. Also facing the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, and a stone's throw away from the Musée des Beaux-Arts, an insouciant name for one of the city's finest three-star hotels. It boasts a high standard of comfort, and a very bright and classical interior. Rooms start at €79 for a double to €110 for a triple.
Hotel Graslin. 1 rue Piron, 00-33-2-4069-7291, hotel-graslin.com. This three-star hotel is very conveniently located near the famous Theatre Graslin and La Cigale restaurant. It's also close to the main shopping area of the rue de Crébillon. The decor in the rooms is classically elegant, and the buffet breakfast is to be recommended at €10. Doubles from €79.
5 places to eat
Brasserie La Cigale. 4 Place Graslin, 00-33-2-5184-9494, lacigale.com. A fabulous late-19th century brasserie, classified as a historic monument which faces the Theatre Graslin, is a magnificent testament to the ornamental excesses of the art noveau period. The menu boasts a huge variety of fish, featuring the famous Nantes beurre blanc sauce, or you can drop in for breakfast as it opens at 7.45am, have afternoon tea, and enjoy the surroundings. Lunch €25, dinner €40. (Tram No.1, Médiathéque).
Tabl'o Gourmand. 6 allée Duquesne, 00-33-2-4047-5770, and 12 rue du Château, 0033-2-5182-7913, tablo-gourmand.com. This restaurant offers great open-faced tartines, large salads, and desserts in two city locations. Lunch is about €20 for two courses. Brunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays starting at 11am.
L'Ardoise. 11 rue Léon Blum, 00-33-2-4047-5451. This little culinary gem received the prestigious Charles Monselet gastronomic award for authentic Nantes cuisine in June. There's a slate on each table, so as you can leave a message for the chef once you've eaten. Starters €7-€10, and most expensive mains at €21. (Tram No 2, Cours des 50 otages).
Au Vieux Quimper. 10 rue de la Baclerie, 00-33-2-4035-6399. This has to be one of the best places for galettes and crêpes in Nantes, and it's a hard choice to have to make with so many good ones around. Their simple "complet galette" is a must, and for dessert the honey and almond crêpe is utterly scrumptious. Lunch is €10-€15 and dinner €25. (Tram No 1, Bouffay).
Le Lait de Mai. 22 quai de Versailles, 00-33-2-4035-6597. This traditional French bistro has a wonderful view over the River Erdre, and the Island of Versailles. It has a very good choice of fish in season, and tasty desserts. Meals from €10-€45. (Tram No 2, St Mhiel).
5 places to go
The Castle of the Dukes of Brittany and Nantes History Museum. 4 place Marc Elder 00-33-2-5117-4948, chateau-nantes.fr. Built over the course of centuries beginning in the 15th by Francois II, the last Duke of Brittany, and completed by his daughter Anne, the castle houses a royal palace of elegant renaissance facades. The history museum hosts lively and interactive exhibitions, and has an ambitious programme of cultural events.
Musée des Beaux-Arts. 10 rue Georges Clémenceau, 00-33-2-5117-4500. It contains a rich collection of work true to the history of western painters from the 13th to the 19th century. Not all its Renaissance and contemporary works are on display at any one time, but try and catch a glimpse of
David Triumphantby Delaunay, Chagall's
Le Cheval Rougeand Monet's
Nymphéas.
Le Lieu Unique. quai Ferdinard Favre, 00-33-2-5182-1500, lelieuunique.com. This former LU biscuit factory is now home to an art exhibition space, a bar/cafe, a restaurant and shops. Its defining symbol on the Nantes skyline, is a massive, colourful art deco dome (pictured below). Downstairs is Hammam Zeïn, a Middle Eastern-style spa and bath house. (00-33-2-4089-0999, zeinorientalspa.fr).
Natural History Museum. 12 rue Voltaire, 00-33-2-4041-5500, museum.nantes.fr. Opened in the former city mint, it is celebrating its bicentenary this year (1810-2010). It houses a variety of general zoological collections, regional fauna and live reptiles, and bats from all over the world.
The Machines of the Île de Nantes. Les Chantiers Blvd Léon Bureau, 00-33-8-1012-1225, lesmachines-nantes.fr. A team of creative builders have set up their workshop in the old shipyards. They used to build ships here, and now they make monumental mechanical animals for the young and old to enjoy. You can climb on board the "Great Elephant", or look around the gallery. It has been compared to Disneyworld but, it's more akin to Jules Verne's world of science fiction.
Hot spot
L'Atlantide. 16 rue Quai Ernest Renaud, 00-33-2-40732323, restaurant-atlantide.net. This is a gastronomic dinning experience, one not to be missed. Head chef Jean-Yves Guého and his team know how to seduce diners by combining local produce with inspiration from Asia, where he learned his art. Lunches from €27 and dinner €55-€95. (Tram No 1, Gare Maritime).
Shop spot
A stroll down the rue de Crébillon for designer labels such as Tara Jarmon, Manfield, Renaldi Couture, Cerruti 1881, and Lacoste, and, at the exit of the Passage Pommeraye, rue de la Fosse for, Kenzo, Paul Smith and Hugo Boss.
Passage Pommeraye (entrance at rue Santeuil and exit rue de la Fosse) is a shopping arcade, built in 1843 and still unchanged in the 21st century, with three floors of shops, and a monumental staircase.
When to go
In November, you have a choice of either the International Film Festival of Three Continents, featuring films from Africa, Asia and Latin America, or science fiction buffs will not want to miss the International Science Fiction Festival, "Utopiales", which takes place in the Cite Internationale des Congres.
In December on the Place du Commerce and Place Royale, one of the best Christmas markets in France takes place, featuring the flavours of the olden days in a fairytale ambiance with crib figures, pottery, gingerbread and foie gras.
The biggest event of the summer marking the end of the holidays is a jazz festival and a traditional wooden boat festival on the River Erdre, which takes place at the end of August and attracts more than 150,000 people over the four days.
Go there:Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from Dublin and Shannon to Nantes.
nantes-tourisme.fr