Bordeaux - one of Nicolas Sarkozy's favourite haunts - is a great getaway destination, writes Peter Cluskey
TIME WAS when anyone visiting Bordeaux and the chic Atlantic resort of Arcachon during August would be encouraged in hushed tones to "look out for Nicolas Sarkozy and his glamorous wife, Cécilia . . . He's going to be the next French president".
How right they were. Sarko spent the summer en famille in Arcachon in 2004, 2005 and 2006. But his loyalty wavered. He spent his first summer holiday as president not in France but in the United States, at a small lakeside resort not far from George W Bush's summer residence in Kennebunkport. Bordeaux and Arcachon were gone - and Cécilia was next to go, replaced a few months later by Carla Bruni.
But the city is still a great destination. There is no better time to head there than before the end of the summer or during the arrière saison, or "back season".
Once there you'll find that a working knowledge of the life and times of "Sarko the American" and his bling bling first lady, as their French detractors now call them, prepares you ideally for an apéro - a rest prior to dining - followed by dinner at La Tupiña. This restaurant, in the old heart of the old city, features regularly in lists of the 10 best in the world.
The Sarkozy table will be empty. So, too, most likely will the table frequented by his predecessor, Jacques Chirac, who ate here regularly during his time as president, perhaps chewing over his chances of facing charges relating to alleged irregularities during his time as mayor of Paris.
You'll still find the non-politicians, however: the designer Philippe Starck, who flies his former Swiss military aircraft down from Paris most weekends; the ageing pop star Johnny Hallyday; or the TV news anchor and sailing enthusiast Patrick Poivre d'Arvor, who has just been removed from the top job at TF1 amid allegations of political interference by . . . Nicolas Sarkozy.
If La Tupiña is where the movers and shakers eat, the Grand-Théâtre de Bordeaux, nearby, is where they go for an accompanying helping of culture, whether it's a recital by Cecilia Bartoli, a performance of Giselle by the Ballet de l'Opéra de Bordeaux or an exhibition of contemporary art on tour from Paris.
If your time in this magnificent city is limited, the steps of the Grand-Théâtre are a good place to take your bearings. Bordeaux was named a Unesco World Heritage site in 2007 in recognition of its history as the world's pre-eminent wine- trading city.
As you stroll towards Quai des Chartrons, a restored crescent of wine-trading offices and warehouses on the banks of the Garonne, you can almost smell the centuries of commerce - and, the French now admit, slavery - it has taken to build the Bordeaux marque.
If you want a cool place to people-watch, try Café Le Régent, on Place Gambetta. If you're a beer nerd, Le Lucifer, on Rue Pessac, is for you.
Wine enthusiasts, of course, must follow the Route des Vins, or wine route, through the Médoc, on the left bank of the Garonne. It brings you past the greatest wine châteaux, from Margaux and Latour to Mouton Rothschild, Pichon-Longueville and Cos d'Estournel. The next day, start again on the right bank, with Saint-Émilion and Pomerol.
And, by the way, for a fun introduction to wine there's nothing better than the Marathon du Médoc, run in early September along the wine route with most of the runners in fancy dress or running for charity. Many of the "athletes" eat and drink wine at free stands along the way. And it's all followed, in typical French fashion, by an enormous meal. Who won last year? Who cares!
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go if you're spending a weekend in the world's leading wine city
5 places to stay
Hôtel Continental. 10 Rue Montesquieu, 00-33-5- 56526600, www.hotel-le- continental.com. This is a stylish city-centre hotel dating back to the 18th century. It's old world but with Wi-Fi and air conditioning. Rates are about €85 for a double, with family rooms at about €190.
Hôtel Acanthe. 14 Rue Saint Remi, 00-33-5-56816658, www.acanthe-hotel-bordeaux.com. Well located, near Place de la Bourse, this is great value, at about €55 for a double or €70 for a triple.
Hôtel de l'Opéra. 35 Rue Ésprit de Lois, 00-33-5- 56814127, www.hotel-de- lopera.com. This nice little hotel of 28 rooms, a stone's throw from the Grand-Théâtre, is popular with opera-goers in town overnight. Double rooms from about €50; breakfast €6.
Hôtel Ariane. 5 Rue de la Lurbe, 00-33-5-56522772, www.hotel-ariane33.com. If you're on a budget, this is ideal. It's down a little side street in the city centre. It has parking. It's not the Ritz, but it's pleasant, clean, serves a nice breakfast. . . and you can walk anywhere in a few minutes. Rates from €48 for a double.
Hôtel des Pins. 23 Rue des Fauvettes, Cap Ferret, 00-33-5-56606011, www.hoteldespins.eu. This charming hotel is in Cap Ferret - not to be confused with Cap Ferrat, on the Côte d'Azur - 45 minutes by road from the city, with high-season rates for a double room from €75 a night.
5 places to eat
La Tupiña. 6 Rue Porte de la Monnaie, 00-33-5-56915637, www.latupina.com. Reputedly one of the best restaurants in the world, La Tupiña specialises in the gastronomy of southwest France. Rick Stein is a big fan.
À la Table du Pecheur. 16 Rue de la Cour des Aides, 00-33-5-56482261. Serves wild seafood and shellfish straight from the Arcachon Basin, all in a fisherman's cabin-style setting.
Restaurant la Concorde. 50 Rue Maréchal Joffre, 00-33-5-56446897, www.laconcorde-bordeaux.fr. This 100-year-old brasserie in the heart of Bordeaux is an interesting mix of baroque charm and modern brasserie cuisine.
Restaurant le Vieux Bordeaux. 27 Rue Buhan, 00-33-5-56529436, www.le-vieux-bordeaux.com. Tucked away a stone's throw from the great bell tower in the old town. Serves traditional local dishes and has a nice covered terrace and a shady garden.
Le Café du Port. 1 Quai Deschamps, 00-33-5-56778118, www.lecafeduport.com. On the quayside in a converted warehouse, this atmospheric restaurant serves excellent local meat, fish and vegetarian specialities at reasonable prices.
5 places to go
Route des Vins. Don't miss a guided tour of the great chateaux of Médoc. Some start from the tourism office at 12 Cours 30 Juillet, 00-33-5- 56006600, www.bordeaux- tourisme.com. Look out for the Irish-owned properties such as Château de Fieuzal, owned by Lochlann and Brenda Quinn. You won't want to drive, so have a look at www.bordeaux-wine- travel.com.
Vinorama Wine Museum. 10 Cours du Médoc, 00-33-5-56395302, www.cugnac.perso.cegetel.net. Vinorama traces the history of the city and its wines from Roman times - with tastings, of course, including a rare opportunity to taste Roman honey wine.
Sonia Rykiel Création et Diffusion de Modèles, 51 Cours Georges Clemenceau, 00-33-5-56480219, www.soniarykiel.fr. Sonia Rykiel - 70-plus and now elevated to the Légion d'Honneur - is more than just another French couturier. To visit one of her shops is to walk on hallowed ground.
Public gardens, Cours de Verdun, 00-33-5-56102030, www.parcsetjardins.fr. This is no ordinary public garden: this is 10 hectares of rare trees and plants opened in 1756 as a classic example of a French garden. Kids love the boat trip across the lake.
Bassin d'Arcachon, 00-33-5-57527494, www.bassin-arcachon.com.
This is a magnificent 1,500-hectare lagoon west of Bordeaux, surrounded by pretty towns and villages, including Arcachon itself. A boat trip is a pleasure. Watch out for the famous cabanes, or houses on stilts. The local oysters are famous.
Where to shop
All the big names are located in the "golden triangle", the pedestrian area around Place Gambetta: Cartier, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Hugo Boss, Christian Lacroix, Mont Blanc, Rolex..
Hot spot
Le Port de la Lune. 58 Quai de Paludate, 00-33-5- 56491555, www.leportdela lune.com. This is a restaurant with a jazz bar, Le Comptoir du Jazz, central to Bordeaux Jazz Festival, every May.
Coffee break
Baillardran. 263 Rue Judaïque, 00-33-5-56991375, www.baillardran.com. This fourth-generation cake shop is a place of pilgrimage for pâtisseurs and a nice place for coffee, a pastry and a bit of relaxation.
What to avoid
The outskirts. In common with most French cities, the urban sprawl is appalling, with enormous shopping centres - grandes surfaces, as the French call them - where you'll invariably get lost.
Good night out
A glamorous night out at the Grand-Théâtre (www.opera- bordeaux.com) makes you feel part of the Bordeaux in-crowd. Dress up if you want to - but they're used to all sorts during the tourist months.
Get in the mood
Get down to your local off-licence and stock up on Bordeaux wines. That shouldn't be too hard. The cheaper plonk tends to be quite sweet, so spoil yourself a bit. You'll find it's cheaper when you land in France anyway.
Go there
Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus. com) flies to Bordeaux from Dublin (www.bordeaux. aeroport.fr) every day from March until the end of October. Aer Arann (www. aerarann.com) flies to Bordeaux from Galway and Waterford. Ryanair (www. ryanair.com) files to Biarritz, a three-hour drive from Bordeaux, from Dublin and Shannon.