Argentina's vineyards somehow flourish, despite their incredibly high altitudes, producing unique wines with intense aromas and fruit, writes JOHN WILSON
ARGENTINA IS THE hidden heavyweight of the wine world. Currently ranked the fifth-largest producer, it dwarves its better-known neighbour Chile in terms of volume. You will find it in our wine shops, but it lags far behind Australia and Chile in our affections.
This has started to change; internal consumption, once a massive annual 90 litres per head, has dropped to a mere 40 (compared to our measly 19), and exports are growing rapidly. Argentina has a lot going for it; a reliable sunny climate, plenty of inexpensive wine to sell, and its own special adopted grape variety, Malbec. It is also a great place to visit.
Most of the vineyards are at impossibly high altitudes, yet somehow they flourish. The vines are not found high up on the slopes of the snow-covered Andes, but on the gently rising semi-desert floor below. It is disconcerting to discover these vineyards are at an altitude of 900 metres. The increased intensity of sunlight and fluctuation between day- and night-time temperatures make for unique wines.
The red wines of Argentina – and most are red – are typically full-bodied and ripe, perfect for the national dish, grilled beef.
VISITING THE WINE REGIONS
There is a lot for the wine tourist in Argentina, with most wineries offering tours and tastings. Mendoza is less than two hours’ flight from Buenos Aries and an hour from Santiago. With a population of one million, the city has plenty of places to eat and a vibrant nightlife.
To arrange a wine tour contact Trout Wine ( troutandwine.com) run by Irishman Charlie O'Malley. The city is also a good starting point for horseriding, mountaineering, hillwalking, white-water rafting and trout fishing. The newest wine region in Mendoza is the Uco Valley, 50km south. A visit to Clos de los Siete, an ambitious project by wine consultant Michel Rolland, incorporating five wineries is recommended, as are Bodegas Salentein and Bodegas Atamisque, a winery, fruit and trout farm with a good restaurant. Cafayate in the north is much more intimate, with a relaxed, colonial feel. The region is picturesque, and offers great mountain walks. I stayed in the pleasant Alta La Luna, a school turned boutique hotel in Tolombón ( altalaluna.com).
THE GRAPE VARIETIES
Malbec is the calling card of Argentine wine. First imported in 1853, it adapted well to the climate, and now accounts for 70 per cent of all vines. Styles vary from fragrant, light and fruity, through to full-throttle blockbusters. Bonarda, the second most popular, is deeply-coloured but light and fruity – the perfect antidote to Malbec. The white variety Torrontés is believed to have originated in northwest Spain. Always perfumed, in warmer regions it tends to be rich and textured. In cooler, high-altitude vineyards of Cafayate, it can make more refined, crisp wines.
THE WINE REGIONS
Mendoza is the engine room of the industry and most older wineries are based just outside. There are a few sub-regions worth seeking out; Luján de Cuyo is noted for rich, powerful Malbec. The Uco Valley, further south, is higher and cooler and produces wines with greater elegance and finesse. San Juan, just north, is hotter and has a growing reputation for Syrah. Salta and the sub-region of Cafayate, in the far north, claims the highest vineyard in the world at an amazing 3,000m. At a slightly lower elevation of 1,600m, the rest of Cafayate is known for perfumed Torrontés and some elegant reds. To the south, Patagonia is developing a reputation for cooler, lighter, but still intensely-flavoured wines, sometimes with a pleasing tannic bite.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Crios Torrontés 2011, Cafayate 13.5% €10.55Susanna Balbo is one of the most respected winemakers in Argentina. Her Malbec (€11.70) is a lovely wine full of bouncy, ripe fruit. The Crios Torrontés has a nicely floral nose and very refined crisp green citrus fruits on the palate. Stockists: Wines Direct 1890-579579, winesdirect.ie
La Linda Bonarda 2010, Mendoza 14% €11.25A classic Bonarda with light, juicy, dark cherry and blackcurrant, and a smooth, tannin-free finish. Perfect to drink alongside white meats. Stockists: Ardkeen Stores, Waterford; Hollands, Bray; Lord Mayor, Swords; Baggot Street Wines; The Parting Glass, Enniskerry; Next Door, Navan and Arklow; Callan's, Drogheda
El Comandante Malbec 2010, Mendoza 14% €12.50This has a very recent Irish connection, having been set up by the late Commandant Michael Lynch of the Irish Army. Today, his son Tom continues the work. This is a very attractive, easy-drinking Malbec with smooth, dark fruits and light tannins on the finish. Stockists: Very widely available from independents including Donnybrook Fair; The Corkscrew, Chatham St; Mannings, Ballylickey; Mitchells, Sandycove IFSC; Deveneys, Dundrum; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Next Door, Limerick
Doña Paula Estate Malbec 2010, Mendoza 14% €12.99Restrained violets and cassis on the nose, with a silky palate of ripe, black cherries and cassis, overlaid with vanilla and cloves; the well-integrated acidity keeps it fresh and the finish is rounded and smooth. This represents good value at €13. Stockists: Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; Deveney's, Dundrum; Drink Store, Stoneybatter; Donnybrook Fair; O'Briens; Londis, Malahide
Domaine Jean Bousquet Malbec 2010, Tupungato Valley 14% €13.80Violet and sweet fruit aromas on the nose; this has lovely, fresh, elegant, ripe strawberry and loganberry fruits, good depth of flavour and a lingering finish. Very nice wine at a keen price. This is an organic wine made by Frenchman Jean Bousquet in a sub-region of the Uco Valley. Stockists: O'Donovan's, Cork; Morton's, Galway; Lilac Wines, Dublin 3; Taste, Castletownbere; marypawlewines.com
Achavel Ferrer Malbec 2010, Mendoza 14.5% €21.35/£15.99Achaval Ferrer produces some of the finest wines of Argentina, including three sought-after (and very expensive) single-vineyard Malbecs. This wine has very enticing, pure fruits on the nose, followed by a beautifully elegant, lightly spicy palate with clean, fresh loganberries, smooth tannins and a very good finish. Stockists: Redmond's, Ranelagh; James Nicholson, jnwine.com
For further information on the wines of Argentina, see wilsononwine.ie
