I AM FREQUENTLY ASKED what the next big thing in wine will be. There is one giant that has yet to really make it in Ireland and elsewhere. Argentina is the world’s fifth largest wine producer. Largely populated by Italian and Spanish immigrants, it has a wine culture going back almost 500 years. Until recently, it had its own individual style of wine, aged in oak for long periods, which to European palates was distinctly lacking in fruit.
However, it was very popular at home, where more than 90 per cent of the market lay (Argentina is still the world’s eighth largest consumer of wine). It was only in the late 1980s that the wine industry began to look seriously at the export market, and, helped by the devalued peso, began producing high quality, richly fruity wines that made the world take notice.
Argentina has a lot to offer, so it is surprising that it has not had greater impact on our wine drinking tastes. The quality has improved dramatically, and prices are very competitive. Yet my local supermarket has only a few shelves devoted to Argentina, compared to a huge array from Chile, Australia and South Africa.
One problem Argentina does have is a lack of Sauvignon, currently the most fashionable grape variety. There are a few decent examples on the Irish market, but the hot, sunny weather in Mendoza, where more than 80 per cent of the country’s wine is produced, is not ideal for this cool-climate grape. Instead, Argentina can offer its own indigenous aromatic white grape, Torrontés. There are some very tasty wines, the best of which tend to come from the cooler vineyards in Salta to the far north, or more recently from Patagonia in the deep south. Think of a cross between Sauvignon and Gewürztraminer, aromatic and refreshing with succulent ripe fruits. In addition to Torrontés, there has been some success with Chardonnay and Viognier in particular.
The country also has a few special red varieties. Most readers will be familiar with Malbec, a French grape variety that Argentina has made its own in recent years. The less expensive versions have lovely, supple, ripe, dark fruits; the more expensive are full-bodied and powerful, packed with explosive, meaty, dark fruits. Provided they’re not too heavily oaked, I am very fond of both camps. The Bonarda grape was thought to be related to the Barbera grape of Piedmont, and it was assumed that it had been brought over by Italian immigrants. More recent studies show it to be the Corbeau of Savoie, also known as Charbono in California. Bonarda is usually full of colour, with plenty of acidity and tannins, too. If the winemaker succeeds in taming the tannins, it can be a very attractive refreshing red. Together, these two semi-indigenous varieties make up almost 50 per cent of red plantings.
With all the noise about Malbec, it is sometimes forgotten that Argentina makes some very good Cabernet and, increasingly, some stylish Syrah. I am slightly mystified as to why Argentina has not been more successful, as it appears to have everything going for it. Perhaps 2010 will see a real breakthrough. In addition to the wines below, Trapiche, Alamos, Argento and Pascual Toso are both widely available and reliable.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Michel Torino Torrontés 2009, Calchaqui Valley, 13.5%, €9.99Michel Torino is based in the cooler northern vineyards of Cafayate. Its wines usually have elegance and freshness. This is a very perfumed Torrontés, with aromas of honeysuckle and a lovely light, but concentrated palate. Stockists: Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Sandyford House, Dublin 14; Deveney's, Dundrum; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Dunnes Stores, nationwide; Matson's, Bandon, Co Cork
Tesco Finest Argentina Shiraz 2009, San Juan, 14.5%, €5.99The Callia winery in San Juan, a few hours drive north of Mendoza, makes some impressive Syrah. This has savoury liquorice and dark fruits, plenty of power and surprisingly good length. Tesco has this at €5.99 on promotion for August and September, representing a fantastic bargain. Stockist: Tesco, nationwide
Luigi Bosca La Linda 2009, Mendoza, 13.5%, €10A nicely aromatic, juicy red with attractive blackberry fruits and a smooth finish. Perfect on its own but better with cold meats and charcuterie. Serve cool, but not chilled. Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Ardkeen Stores, Waterford; Swan's, Naas; Mac's, Limerick; Fahy's, Ballina; Market 57, Westport; Next Door, Salthill; Next Door, Kilkee; Red Island, Skerries; The Vintry, Rathgar; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Next Door, Thomastown; Gibney's, Malahide
Doña Paula Los Cardos Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Mendoza, 14%, €9.99A fragrant, velvety Cabernet with a sweet new oak and ripe cassis fruit. Good value at €10. Try it with roast lamb. Stockists: Tesco; Nolan's, Clontarf; Eurospar, Dalkey; The Carpenter, Carpenterstown; Fagan's, Phibsborough
Altos las Hormigas Malbec 2009, Mendoza, 14%, €14.99A fresher style of Malbec with a generous amount of juicy dark fruits, good acidity and a lingering finish. Going slightly towards Europe in style, this would go nicely with medium-bodied red meats. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Red Island Wine, Skerries; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street; Wine Cellar, Sandyford Business Park; JM Vintners; Next Door, Enfield; Drink Store, Manor Street; Donnybrook Fair; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Simply Wines and Martin's, Fairview
Bodega Lurton Malbec Reserva 2008, Mendoza, 14.5%, €18A meatier style of Malbec, but beautifully done, with masses of rich, dark fruits, overlaid with some spice, and excellent length. A wine of immense power and depth that calls out for a steak. Stockists: Redmond's, Ranelagh; Thomas's, Foxrock
DIARY DATES
August 20th, 5.30pm Deveney’s Lughnasa Beer festival in the Pod, Harcourt Street, Dublin 2. Tickets €20 from deveneysbeer. blogspot.com; Deveney’s Dundrum and Rathmines; the Vintry, Rathmines; Redmond’s, Ranelagh; and Jus de Vine, Portmarnock.
September 15th, 7pm Maximilian Riedel of Riedel wine glasses hosts a comparative wine tasting using both Riedel and competing wine glasses in the Convention Centre, Spencer Dock, Dublin. Tickets are from €95. See mitchellandson.com, or contact Jean Smullen on 01-2745955 or Jean@jeansmullen.com to book tickets
