ONE DAY, I’VE VOWED, I will go and eat in one or all of David Chang’s New York restaurants. This Korean American started off with just one restaurant, Momofuku Noodle Bar, which has grown into a mini empire of restaurants, including the fine dining KO.
He has described his food as “bad pseudo-fusion cuisine” and the introduction by journalist Peter Meehan of his cookbook, Momofuku, reads like a Rolling Stone review of the craziest and coolest rock band, like, ever.
Anyway, the thing is, whether he’s beyond cool or ridiculously over-hyped, I am convinced that these restaurants serve some damn fine tasty food – the main reason being the holy trinity of salt, sugar and fat that seems to permeate each and every dish. The book is fun and invigorating and although most of the recipes are not exactly mid-week friendly, there are bits and pieces worth recreating.
I tried making the miso butter that he uses on chargrilled asparagus, which he serves alongside a poached egg. It is mighty tasty and as you make a big batch, it’s perfect to freeze and cut off pieces to use as you wish.
Miso is a Japanese paste that’s usually made from fermented soy beans and has huge quantities of tastiness but, arguably, lots of salt. However, there are fans who say there are plenty of health benefits to be had, as long as you don’t cook it too much, to retain the natural goodness.
Many would argue that the high-salt level would outweigh most health benefits. However, it’s a big part of the Japanese diet and is utterly delicious, so all that’s required is a little moderation. Chang also makes a fish sauce vinaigrette which he recommends putting on roasted Brussels sprouts.
I regularly roast Brussels sprouts whole in the oven, at quite a high heat, with some rock salt and olive oil. When they are starting to char and are reasonably tender, they’re done. My family complain bitterly about them, but I don’t care because I adore them.
What makes them a bit more tolerable for the family is lashing a spoonful of fish sauce vinaigrette on to them. To make it, mix together 200mls fish sauce, 100mls water, two tablespoons of rice wine vinegar, plus the juice of two limes, two tablespoons of soft brown sugar, two garlic cloves and some chopped chilli and spring onions. Spoon this over anything green that no-one is enthusiastic about eating. It’s pretty powerful, and this might just become your new favourite condiment. It’s very “ghetto” as David Chang says about all kooky creations. I would use the term rustic, which my husband says is a euphemism for inedible.
The other recipe, for crab with spaghetti and mint, is a based on a Lucas Hollweg one. I tried this with coriander. and also just parsley. But I did like his suggestion to use the mint, especially coming into summer. There’s something altogether quite fragrant and light about it. Both these dishes are perfect for that kind of casual but glam al fresco dining we all aspire to. One day I’ll get there.
SPAGHETTI WITH CRAB AND MINT
Serves 4
Ingredients
350g spaghetti
350g cooked crab meat
125ml olive oil
50g breadcrumbs
2 cloves garlic peeled and crushed
2 pinches chilli flakes
Zest and juice of 2 lemons
Salt and pepper
Bunch mint, roughly chopped
Handful of watercress or rocket
Method
This is a very quick dinner to make: in a frying pan, fry the breadcrumbs with about one-third of the olive oil and the garlic and chilli as well as the lemon zest. Season well. Shake them about in the pan and let them brown slightly. Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling water, then drain it, stir in the last two-thirds of the olive oil and add the crab meat, mint, lemon juice. Season and then pile into bowls and top with the breadcrumbs and watercress or rocket.
ASPARAGUS WITH MISO BUTTER
Serves 4
Ingredients
2 bunches asparagus, bases trimmed
100g miso paste
200g butter
Pinch of salt
Olive oil
Splash sherry vinegar
Method
You can cook these two ways. First make the flavoured butter by mixing it in a food processor with the miso. Wrap it in cling film and roll it up into a sausage shape. That way you can freeze it and cut slices from it, to use at your leisure.
To cook the asparagus, take the trimmed spears, rub them with a little olive oil and season with salt. Heat up your chargrill pan until it is really hot and chargrill them till nicely charred on all sides. Then add a good chunk of the miso butter, let it sizzle and then plop the asparagus onto a large platter and let everyone dig in. Alternatively, you can put the spears in a small roasting tray with a good slice of the miso butter and let them roast in a hot oven (about 220 degrees/gas 7) for about six to eight minutes, until they are starting to char. Splash with the sherry vinegar and serve.
