The future for men's fashion is bright and brash, says CIARA ELLIOTT. You'll find a bright colour, zip, button or lining on most garments
FROM BRIGHT ZINGY greens and oranges at Kenzo to all-out colour blocking at Jil Sander, this summer designers have been luring men from their comfort zones towards vibrant colour-popping hues.
And while we’re seeing these influences trickle onto the streets now – whether it’s the flash of fluorescent Raybans, a vivid espadrille or an eye-catching blazer – only the very fashion-brave or the serious early adopters are fixing on the true colour clash, head-to-toe style.
“It always takes a while for the runway to translate into the mainstream, but there is a definite movement there already, towards what I see as a sort of English heritage meets Mediterranean look,” says Garrett Pitcher of fashion-forward Dublin shop Indigo and Cloth. It currently stocks a Scandinavian brand called Acne, which features deep blues and mustards among its signature shades for autumn. “Designers such as Paul Smith are going back to the 1960s and 1970s for inspiration and the result is a really vivid, exciting picture.”
“The last few seasons everyone has been playing it safe and we are beginning to see the reaction to that,” says Pitcher. “We now see designers and retailers looking towards colour again and, while it used to be all about pastels and blues, we are seeing the leaning towards retro colour pops. It’s a really exciting time in men’s fashion.”
Alan Kelly of Gentleman Please in Blackrock, Co Dublin, agrees. When we speak, he is on his way to London to buy for the next season. “There is definitely a confidence returning to the market which is reflected in designers using brighter colours. For three years now things have been at a bit of a standstill as people cut back on their wardrobe.
“During the recession my customers have been looking for nice fabrics, classic cuts and no showy labels, but I already see how that is turning around as people are desperate now to rebuild their wardrobes. Next season I’ll be looking for unique pieces. You need to buy something a bit different to stand out from everyone.”
For autumn, the palette in menswear is lustrous and earthy, with pops of orange and red, and while staples such as chunky knits and khakis are key, statement makers also come in the form of scarves, cravats, bright socks, wallets, belts and bags.
“For the Irish guy it is all about a hint of colour or detail, without being over-the-top,” says Valerie O’Neill, head buyer of menswear at Arnotts, which has just revamped its menswear floor to include new labels such as cult Arrow shirts and Steve McQueen for Barbour, as well as popular leather bags and the accessories brand Coach.
“Vintage styling and tailoring is huge this season and you can’t underestimate the influence of Dermot O’Leary wearing a double-breasted jacket with a retro tie and skinny trousers on X Factor, or Ant and Dec with their sharp suits.”
Bright ties, cool cufflinks and details such as bright lining or velvet piping, which create contrast and luxuriousness, all add to the debonaire look.
The future looks bright indeed.
