Like Marlborough sauvignon blanc and New Zealand, malbec has become the signature wine of Argentina. Successful the world over, sales have steadily increased over the last two decades, only occasionally hampered by the country’s economic woes.
Winemaking is centred around the city of Mendoza. It is a unique area to grow grapes. Although on a flat desert floor, most of the vineyards are at an altitude of 800-900 metres, the highest at over 2,000 metres. This high altitude causes substantial temperature fluctuations between night and day, and more intense UV light. It makes for deeply coloured grapes with an unusual combination of good acidity and ripe fruit. These can produce a seductive style of wine, highly perfumed with rich, perfectly ripe dark fruits. Irrigation is supplied by the meltwater from the mighty Andes. In many ways, despite the danger of frost and hail, it is an ideal place to grow grapes.
Malbec was brought to Argentina from southwest France in the 1860s, and it is still widely grown there. It is found primarily in Cahors, where it is sometimes known as auxerrois, and the Loire, where it is referred to as côt. Some Bordeaux producers use it in their blend. The wines are very different from their counterparts from Argentina; at one stage they were often chewy and austere, but these days they generally have attractive savoury ripe dark fruit and make a great partner to local cuisine, including duck, goose and bean stews.
This week, two wines from each country. The Côtes du Lot is a less expensive version of Cahors.
Malbec 2025, Vin de France
12.5%, €7.99
Light, supple, dark fruits with a rounded, smooth finish. A party wine, or enjoy it with lighter red meat dishes.
Lidl
Gaudou Exception Malbec 2024 Côtes du Lot
11.5%, €15.25
Mature, seductive, smooth plum fruits with a touch of spice and a tannin-free finish. With charcuterie and firm cheeses.
WinesDirect.ie, Mullingar, Athlone, Co Westmeath
Malbado Malbec 2023
14.5%, €20
This is a stylish malbec with delicious, smooth, ripe dark fruits. Slips down beautifully, masking the hearty level of alcohol. Try it with a steak.
La Touche, Greystones, Co Wicklow; Whelehans, Loughlinstown, Dublin 18; Redmonds, Dublin 6; Nolan’s, Dublin 3; Higgins, Dublin 14; Leonard’s, Trim, Co Meath; McHugh’s, Dublin 5; MacGuinness, Dundalk, Co Louth; The Coach House, Dublin 16; Drinkstore, Dublin 7
Zuccardi Valles Malbec 2025, Uco Valley, Argentina
14%, €19-21
Very attractive, svelte, elegant, red cherry and black fruits, with a touch of liquorice and smooth tannins. Drink with red meats and firm cheeses.
Pinto, Dublin 9; Bradleys, Cork; JJ O’Driscoll, Cork; Fitzpatrick’s, Little Island, Co Cork; J Caxard, Camolin, Co Wexford; Donnybrook Fair; Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin
