A reader asks: A friend has just returned from holiday and gave me a bottle labelled Calvados Pays d’Auge, VSOP. What is it?
Calvados is an apple brandy made in Normandy in northern France. It is produced in a similar manner to Cognac or Armagnac except Calvados is distilled from cider and the other two are made from distilled wine. It is usually double distilled. It has been made in Normandy since at least the 16th century and possibly longer. There is a list of permitted apple varieties, mostly quite tannic cider varieties.
At one stage, many farmers in Normandy had their own mini-distillery on the farm and made their own Calvados – of varying quality. This is gradually being closed down by the authorities, although there are still 300 producers.
Pays d’Auge is a subregion of Calvados, with stricter production methods. It is considered superior to simple Calvados. All Calvados must be aged for at least two years in barrel, giving it a golden colour like Cognac or whiskey. However, you can buy 10-, 20- or 30-year-old Calvados which can be excellent. The VSOP Calvados that your friend gave you must be aged in barrel for at least five years. VSOP stands for very special old pale. An XO or extra old must be at least six years old, although many are actually much older.
Calvados is used in cocktails or mixed with unfermented apple juice to create Pommeau which has an abv of around 18-20%, compared with 40% for Cognac. High-quality Calvados (or “Calva” as it is often called in France) is usually consumed after dinner like a Cognac or Armagnac.
If you enjoy your bottle and want more, Calvados is available in Ireland. Also, in recent years a number of Irish apple growers and cider producers have started making their own apple brandy. They cannot be called Calvados because it is a protected name. Some of these are very good and worth seeking out as an alternative to whiskey. My favourites include Orr, Longueville House, Highbank, The 80, The Whistler (a mix of Irish brandy and Calvados).
