My granny, a humble home baker, called her soda breads “cakes”, a fitting name for their indulgent flavour and tender crumb.

She baked six cakes daily – three brown and three curnie cakes (traditional Irish brown bread made with dried fruit). Granny nourished her family of 17 children with her signature bread, which was rich in tradition and love.

Granny’s brown bread was always served thickly sliced, slathered with butter and crowned with honey.

We often had a slice for dessert. Granny’s touch lay in her gentle mixing, mindful of incorporating air and working with a light hand to avoid developing gluten. She would score a cross on each loaf before baking “to let the fairies out” – a tradition passed down through the generations.

Though I’ve never quite matched Granny’s skill, the practice of making her bread keeps her memory alive. This recipe, shared with me by my uncle Dominic, captures the essence of Granny’s craft.

It’s not just a recipe; it’s a ritual – one steeped in tradition, love and a little bit of magic.

1. Preheat the oven to 220°C.

2. Put the flours, bicarbonate of soda and salt into a large mixing bowl and mix together with your fingertips. Be light and playful, incorporating as much air as possible.

3. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and pour in most of the buttermilk. Hold back 20–40ml (1½–3 tablespoons). Mix the dough with your hands until it barely comes together. If the dough seems dry, gradually add the buttermilk you held back until you achieve a soft and slightly sticky consistency. Avoid over mixing. The dough should be falling off your hand.

4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and gently bring it together with your hands to form a round loaf. A gentle touch is required for this step. The loaf should be approximately 15cm in diameter and about 5cm tall.

5. Place the loaf on a floured baking tray. Use a sharp knife to make a deep cross on top of the loaf. You can cut one line and two smaller lines perpendicular to this line – this will give a taller and more rounded loaf once baked.

6. Bake in the oven for 35–40 minutes or until the bread is dark golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom.

7. Remove the bread from the oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool. Wrap a damp dish towel around the loaf – the steam will soften the crust. Allow to cool completely before slicing.

8. Enjoy the bread sliced thick, slathered in salted butter and drizzled with local honey.

Scéal by Charlotte Leonard-Kane and Shane Palmer (Quadrille)