Blackthorn

The Twelve Hotel, Barna, Co Galway; blackthorngalway.com

It’s all change in Barna where chef Nathan Hindmarch has a brand new diningroom to showcase his talents. With a menu inspired by the elements of land, sea and fire, a new open flame set-up works wonders in dishes such as black sole on the bone or dry-aged rib-eye with ramson capers. Long-serving sommelier Fergal Guiney is always happy to guide you through the wine list. Joanne Cronin

Caribou

28-30 Stephen Street, Dublin 2; instagram.com/caribou_dublin

With a bright open room, big windows for people watching and outdoor seating for fine days, Caribou has already established itself as a fun spot in the middle of town for bar food that’s a cut above. Its steak frites with Irish rump steak and peppercorn sauce or double smash burger bring in the weekday lunch crowd, while hearty roast lunches with unlimited gravy fill the seats at weekends. JC

China Tang

5A Monkstown Crescent, Dún Laoghaire, Monkstown, Co Dublin; 01-4853798, chinatang.ie

Peking duck at China Tang – €88 for a whole duck, ordered in advance – arrives gleaming and carved tableside by Mr Chan. The skin is brittle and amber – the first bite cracks, melts and disappears. Warm house-made pancakes, dark hoisin, sharp scallions and cool cucumber build the rest. The second course – wok-fried duck with cumin – is darker, crispier, and just as essential. Pricey, yes – but it is one of the best ducks you will eat in Dublin. Corinna Hardgrave

Cush

The Courtyard, 8a Main Street, Midleton, Co Cork; 021-2455777, cush.ie

Cush recently relocated from the seaside village of Ballycotton to the busy town of Midleton, where Dan Guerin’s cooking remains as sharp and welcoming as ever. A strong focus on locally caught seafood remains at the heart of Cush, with John Dory, roast monkfish and smoked haddock all showcased on the menu. But fear not carnivores, there’s also hearty dry-aged beef chop roasted over charcoal or pork shoulder and mozzarella croquettes. JC

Dolly’s Liscannor

14 Main St, Liscannor, Co Clare; instagram.com/dollysliscannor/

A cool Australian coffee vibe in Liscannor. Elaine Slattery’s coffee shop offers a small, well-executed menu with daily baked goods such as brownies, cookies and scones, plus sandwiches made with local ingredients. Headed by coffee expert Richard Mattey, it’s a laid-back spot with a retractable roof, ideal for sunny afternoons or sheltered seating, and an upstairs studio for yoga and Pilates. CH

Excuse My French

25 Dunville Avenue, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; 01-5672407, excusemyfrench.ie

Toulouse out front, La Rochelle in the kitchen – this narrow Ranelagh bistro from Colin Dapot and Sidjy Batista turns out deft French classics. Raclette-stuffed croquettes, pork in mustard sauce with buttery spaetzle, and a fish gratin show up on the short dinner menu from Wednesday to Sunday. By day, it’s a deli for coffee, croissants and charcuterie – with a smart wine list and retail bottles available with €10 corkage. CH

Forêt

8-9 Sussex Terrace, Leeson Street Upper, Dublin 4; foret.ie

Classic French bistro cooking arrived firmly in Dublin to great acclaim, courtesy of industry stalwarts John and Sandy Wyer. Located over M O’Brien’s pub, the L-shaped diningroom is home to a menu packed with Gallic delights. Start with home-made saucisson or seasonally perfect asparagus with cockles followed by chicken au vin jaune or steak frites with pepper sauce. Make sure, though, to leave room for the croissant pudding with Calvados caramel. JC

Hera

58 Dorset Street Lower, Drumcondra, Dublin 1; 089-4020361, junobar.ie

Dublin’s north inner city received a huge boost with the arrival of Joe Smith’s cooking, tucked inside the revitalised Juno pub. The menu is packed with good value downright tasty plates, influenced by Mediterranean flavours. Scoop up smoked cod taramasalata with home-made crisps, crunch through aubergine schnitzel or share a luxurious fish pie for two. Enjoy with one of their excellent cocktails or craft beers. JC

Hong Kong Wonton

15 Fade St, Dublin 2; 01-6718484, hongkongwonton.ie

Soup hot enough to scald your soul, dumplings fat enough to need a strategy, and French toast that should come with a defibrillator. Hong Kong Wonton is the Pau family’s 16-seater tribute to proper Hong Kong fast food: blisteringly fresh pork and prawn wontons, beef brisket falling apart into spiced broth, and deep-fried peanut butter sandwiches soaked in syrup. It’s a cha chaan teng (Hong Kong diner) drop-kicked into Dublin, serving serious food without apology. CH

Lena

1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8; 01-4163655, lena.ie

From former Locks restaurant to new kid on the block, Lena’s transition has been utterly seamless. The old bar is gone, replaced with a sleek new counter, the diningroom is better than ever and the menu is packed with chef Paul McNamara’s unmissable Italian dishes. Sourdough toast with melting lardo, the peppery pici cacio e pepe and the rich veal shin osso bucco will have you coming back for more. JC

Nosh 19

19 Princes Street, Cork; 021-4802563, nosh19.ie

A Hong Kong native, chef Ben Wong came to Ireland at age 15 and now calls himself a proud Corkman. At Nosh 19, his menu is inspired by Hong Kong cha chaan teng cafe culture, mixing classic Irish-Chinese favourites with authentic Hong Kong and Asian dishes. Recent seafood showcase nights have been a hit, as are dishes like the roast duck noodle soup, Sichuan sour fish and Hong Kong ice milk tea. JC

Reggie’s Pizzeria

221/223 Rathmines Road Lower, Rathmines, Dublin 6; reggies.ie

Reggie White could have stayed the guy who fixed everyone else’s pizza. Instead, he built the best one in Dublin – a sharp, low-waste pizzeria set in a reworked redbrick building in Rathmines. Behind a front window rattling with a 1981 Diosna mixer, he’s turning 48-hour fermented Wildfarmed sourdough into blistered, nutty bases topped with whey-braised leeks, Cashel Blue, and Andarl Farm sausage. CH

Sea Shanty

3 Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 083-1783314, instagram.com/seashantyblackrock

Tucked above Conway’s Bar in Blackrock, Sea Shanty is in a creaky-floored room where dinner drifts between anchovies sharpened with ponzu, grilled octopus on smoky muhammara, green curry and oysters straight from Woopstown, Cooley, and Killough Bay, and battered seaweed bhajis. Uruguayan chef Sebastian Sainz and Spanish sommelier Elena Segura run the floor like it’s their front room, pouring serious natural wines to match the tide of sardine tins, tacos and tentacles. CH

Suertudo

47 Ranelagh, Dublin 6; 01-4978010, suertudo.ie

Jalisco and Oaxaca meet in Ranelagh as chefs Victor Lara and Celina Altamirano combine to bring elevated Mexican food to Dublin. Dishes such as Michelada oysters, tostada de ceviche, birria tacos with consomé and incredible charcoal grilled steak would not be out of place in Mexico City itself. It goes without saying that the cocktails made with imported tequila and mezcal are superb. JC

The Bucks Head Restaurant With Rooms

77-79 Main Street Dundrum BT33 0LU; +44 28-43751868, thebucksheaddundrum.co.uk

The Bucks Head still looks like a Mournes hiking pub from the outside – pint, crisps, dog asleep under the table. Inside, Alex Greene (formerly of Michelin-starred Eipic, Pétrus, Claridge’s), and co-owner Bronagh McCormick are turning out Kilkeel scallops with beurre blanc, black crab and pork ravioli, and a black garlic bread-and-butter pudding that’s worth the drive alone. It’s serious cooking without the ego – a village inn where you can have steak and chips or savour some of the best sauces in Northern Ireland. CH

The Pig’s Ear

4 Nassau Street, Dublin 2; 01-6703865, thepigsear.ie

Following a recent hiatus, the Pig’s Ear is back with a menu that is an ode to Irish literature and art. In other hands this would be twee, even touristy, but under owner Stephen McAllister the results are elevated and confident. Indulgent Dublin Lawyer omelette features whiskey flambéed lobster and Béarnaise sauce, holding true to its origin story of being “as rich as a Dublin lawyer”. JC

The Pullman Restaurant at Glenlo Abbey

Glenlo Abbey Hotel & Estate, Kentfield, Galway; 091-519600, glenloabbeyhotel.ie

Two restored carriages from the Orient Express, Leona (1927) and Linda (1954), at Glenlo Abbey, set the stage for a dining experience led by Angelo Vagiotis (Terre, Noma, Manresa) and pastry chef Linda Sergidou. The tasting menu combines exceptional technique with creativity: from organic leaves tied in a bouquet to Jerusalem artichoke paired with monkfish liver, and turbot in brioche butter with Champagne sauce. The pastry? Some of the best you’ll find. It’s clear – this is Michelin-level ambition, and one to watch. CH

Two Pups Notions

74 Francis Street, Dublin 8; twopupscoffee.com

With summer on the way, Two Pups could not have picked a better time to launch its new evening food and wine offering. And while the name may be tongue-in-cheek, there is absolutely nothing pretentious about Adam Kelly’s food. It’s all bang on trend and beautifully executed, ranging from whipped cod’s roe on grilled sourdough and asparagus in Parmesan sauce and guanciale to chunky ham hock croquettes. Oh, and there’s wine now too. JC

Vada

30 Brunswick Street North, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7; 083-8011001, hellovada.com

Vada is a daytime cafe that has livened up Stoneybatter with creative and fun dishes. Chef Hannah O’Donnell maintains a zero waste philosophy as she serves up breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. The Vada hash goes a step beyond with Ethersons gammon steak and asparagus, while the croissant French toast is for those with a sweet tooth. Look out for pop-up dinners with natural wines over the summer months. JC

Adrift

Dunmore House Hotel, Dunmore, Clonakilty, Co Cork; 023-8833352, dunmorehousehotel.ie

The Barrett family of Dunmore House Hotel know more than a thing or two about hospitality. Over the years, they have consistently developed and improved their little piece of heaven overlooking Clonakilty Bay. Under head chef Manuel Canapini, Adrift has become a contender for the country’s top seafood spots – trawler to table. Joanne Cronin

Aniar

53 Dominick Street Lower, Galway; 091-535947, aniarrestaurant.ie

It was all change last year at Aniar when owner JP McMahon commissioned architect Aidan Conway to create a new interior for this iconic Galway restaurant. Out went the lighter greens and neutral tones, making way for a darkened interior with dramatic focused lighting. It makes sense though, acting as a focus for McMahon’s dishes which have evolved into an intense, almost primal, expression of the west of Ireland. JC

Baba’de

The Mews, Baltimore, Co Cork; 028-48112, babade.ie

Baba’de may be the little sibling to Michelin-starred Dede, but this charming little spot is standing firmly on its own two feet. Under chef Muslim Karafil, savour fragrant delights such as charcoal grilled chicken thighs with hazelnut satay sauce, spiced crispy chicken with brown butter dip, or a whole west Cork blue lobster with pil pil potato mousseline. Or come for Turkish-influenced brunch on weekends. JC

Ballyfin Demesne

Ballyfin, Co Laois; 057-8755866, ballyfin.com

At Ballyfin – a hotel so exclusive it barely seems real – Richard Picard-Edwards has delivered the final flourish: a Michelin star for the diningroom. The €145 eight-course tasting menu is on the familiar side of grandeur, with a thrillingly good Jerusalem artichoke cream topped with chicken jelly and gold leaf, and dishes featuring lobster and caviar. Broths, purées and reductions bring depth without being overwrought. Non-residents can book, but getting a table feels about as casual as applying for citizenship. Corinna Hardgrave

Bramley

10 Main Street, Abbeyleix, Co Laois; 057-8757749, bramleyabbeyleix.com

Sam and Emily Moody’s fine-dining spot in Abbeyleix turns out sharp, confident cooking built on serious pedigree – Sam cooked at Ballyfin and Bath Priory – and produce from their own walled garden. The lunch menu and midweek Supper at Six are great value, but it’s at dinner that the kitchen really hits its stride, with a la carte and tasting menus (€80) delivering dishes like seared scallops, honey-glazed quail with leek emulsion, pan-fried wild halibut with mussels, and slow-roast organic duck. CH

George V at Ashford Castle

Ashford Castle, Cong, Co Mayo; 094-9546003, ashfordcastle.com

The dark wood panelling of Ashford Castle’s George V diningroom might scream old-school but under executive head chef Liam Finnegan the food has taken a fresher turn. French-rooted, yes, but lighter, with sauces built on serious stocks rather than just butter and cream. Much of the produce now comes from a new two-acre kitchen garden, run by head gardener Alex Lavarde using no-dig methods and supplying everything from beets to honey. The twice-baked Hegarty’s cheese soufflé is a must; the wine cellar, as always, is formidable. CH

Homestead Cottage

Lough North, Doolin, Co Clare; 065-6794133, homesteadcottagedoolin.com

It’s not every day a stone-walled cottage on the wild west coast lands a Michelin star, but Robbie McCauley’s precise cooking makes it feel inevitable. Along with his wife Sophie, he has transformed this former cafe into something rooted in tradition but unmistakably modern, serving a nine-course dinner (€125) and six-course lunch (€85). McCauley works tightly with local producers, using Burren outwintered beef, and lobster and crab from Michael O’Connell, they raise their own chickens and have an impressive vegetable garden. There’s even a small terrace for pre-dinner drinks – if the weather behaves. CH

Landline at The Park Hotel Kenmare

Shelbourne Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry; 064-6641200, parkkenmare.com/dining/landline

When Bryan Meehan – the Irish entrepreneur behind Blue Bottle Coffee – bought The Park Hotel from the Brennan brothers last year, two things changed in the diningroom. The tasting menu was dropped in favour of a focused a la carte, and Meehan hung two Sean Scully paintings – one of which gives the room its name, The Landline. Local chef James O’Sullivan keeps things classic but special with seared scallops, Kerry Hill lamb, and pan-seared sole. Non-residents can book. CH

Liath

Blackrock Market, 19a Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 085-1278680, liathrestaurant.com

One of Dublin’s smallest restaurants and one of its mightiest, Liath is an intimate space where food is staged as art. Damien Grey and team perform manoeuvres with grace through service in the fully open kitchen, allowing guests to see the artists at work. Grey is looking to move to a larger space, so make sure to get a booking at Blackrock market before they leave. JC

Lir

The Marina, Coleraine, Co Derry; +44 78-28127739, lirseafood.com

Chef Stevie McCarry recently won the Northern Ireland final of the Great British Menu, a well-earned accolade for this self-taught chef. With wife Rebekah, he has developed Lir into a truly exciting seafood restaurant. The Japanese konro grill is put to good use in the kitchen which turns out cod collar schnitzel, ling kofta with burnt apple sauce and smoked dogfish corndog. Look out for the upcoming summer music nights on the terrace. JC

Paradiso

16 Lancaster Quay, Cork; 021-4277939, paradiso.restaurant

After more than 30 years in business, Denis Cotter is planning his transition away from his legendary fine-dining vegetarian restaurant. Long-term restaurant manager Dave O’Mahony is in line to take over, with head chef Miguel Frutos continuing to lead the kitchen into the future. With produce grown in a unique partnership with Gort na Náin farm and a super natural wine menu, Paradiso continues to set the standard. JC

Rare

3-4 Pearse Street, Kinsale, Co Cork; 021-4772209, rare1784.ie

There isn’t another restaurant quite like Rare. Drawing on his classical French training, chef Meeran Manzoor has invented a cuisine that is all his own, using the best of local produce accented with flavours from his home city of Chennai. His menu descriptions may sound simple but they belie a complexity of spice and nuanced technique that is simply delightful. JC

Restaurant Chestnut

The Chestnut Tree, Staball Hill, Ballydehob, Co Cork; 028-25766, restaurantchestnutwestcork.ie

Rob Krawczyk and Elaine Fleming’s Michelin-starred Chestnut offers three routes – a €55 two-course prix fixe, a four-course for €75 or the full €120 tasting menu. Ingredients are local and fiercely seasonal – Lisheen Greens, Twomey’s butchers, Union Hall fish – with much of it cooked over a custom wood-fired grill. Expect wild halibut with mussels or aged Skeaghanore duck with coal onion and sour cherries. His food is exacting, mature and restrained – one of the country’s top chefs. CH

The Dining Room at Gregan’s Castle

Gregan’s Castle Hotel, Ballyvaughan, Co Clare; 065-7077005, gregans.ie

Sitting in a little glen outside Ballyvaughan, Gregans Castle is the quirky but extremely stylish countryside hotel of dreams. Chef Jonathan Farrell moved from Dublin to take over the kitchens and is producing food perfectly harmonised with the stunning landscapes. Choose from dishes such as wild garlic spaetzle, Atlantic scallop with XO, butter-poached cod, roast rack of Burren lamb or forced rhubarb direct from the hotel garden. JC

The Olde Glen

Glen Village, Carrigart, Co Donegal; 083-1585777, oldeglen.ie

The Olde Glen bar would have a serious chance in any “Ireland’s most traditional pub” competition, and is worth a visit in its own right. But it’s the cooking of Ciaran Sweeney to the rear of the pub that brings the punters in night after night. The menu is packed with local produce including roast Mulroy Bay scallops, fermented potato bread with Gortahork cabbage and glazed Killybegs cod. JC

The Owenmore Restaurant at Ballynahinch Castle

Recess, Connemara, Co Galway; 095-31006, ballynahinchcastle.com

Former Michelin star chef Danni Barry keeps things razor sharp at the Owenmore Restaurant, with a four-course table d’hote menu (€95) that lets the ingredients do the talking. Kilkeel scallops with caramelised kohlrabi, line-caught mackerel with blood orange and horseradish, barbecued quail with soy and honey, and wild sea bass with salt-baked celeriac are cooked with precision. Bookings are available for non-residents. CH