Consumers in the Irish market are great fans of vinho verde and alvarinho, both refreshing, low-alcohol white wines from northern Portugal. Vinho verde is typically a blend of alvarinho and other grapes, while alvarinho on the label signifies it is made of 100 per cent of the variety.
However, Portugal also offers some excellent refreshing dry white wines from other parts of the country. Bucelas is a small historic region close to Lisbon, possibly too close, as urban sprawl is eating away at available vineyard space. The Duke of Wellington was a fan and imported large quantities into England. The grape variety is the indigenous arinto, a variety that is popular as it retains acidity in hot weather.
The Douro Valley is very hot and dry, and generally produces ripe red grapes destined for port production. It hardly seems the place to produce white grapes and make delicate, elegant wines. Yet over the past decade more adventurous producers have planted at altitude on less sunny north-facing slopes. The results have been spectacular. I have featured the wines of Luis Seabra before; they are superb. The Pormenor below is equally good.
Dão lies to the south of the Douro and has a completely different climate. Surrounded by mountains, it is protected from both the maritime rains and the sweltering interior heat. Winters tend to be wet, and summers mild and sunny. Both its red and white wines are known for their elegance. The reds are regarded as some of Portugal’s finest; the white wines are less well-known but can be every bit as good. The primary white grape variety is encruzado, grown almost exclusively in the Dão region, it produces high wines with structure, texture and generosity.
M&S Found Encruzado 2024, Dão
12.5%, €12.50
A refreshing dry white with green apples and lemon zest. Enjoy on its own or with grilled salmon, sardines or mackerel.
From Marks & Spencer
Prova Régia Arinto 2024, Bucelas
12%, €17.99
Fresh plump green apples, pears and grapefruit zest. Drink by itself, with oysters and other shellfish, or sushi.
From Sweeney’s D3, Dublin 3; Pinto Wines, Dublin 9; La Touche Greystones; Matson’s, Cork: Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4; Martins, Dublin 3; Grapevine, Dalkey, Co Dublin; MacGuinness Wines, Dundalk, Co Louth
Pormenor Douro Branco 2024
12.5%, €26
Quite delicious, succulent light wine with refreshing complex yellow fruits, a touch of almonds and a long dry finish. With white meats or grilled sea bass.
From BaRossa Wines, Dublin 4; Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3; Deveney’s, D14; Drinkstore, Dublin 7; Corkscrew, Dublin 2; Neighbourhood Wine, Dublin; Redmonds, Dublin 6; Delgany Cottage, Co Wicklow; Worldwide Wines, Waterford; Nectar Wines, Dublin 14
Dão Branco Ideal 2023 Carlos Raposo
12.5%, €31.50
Very fine aromas, delicate mineral green fruits augmented by subtle toasted almonds. Drink with vegetable gratins or roast salmon.
From Blackrock Cellar, Co Dublin; Pinto Wines, Dublin 9; BaRossa wines, Dublin 4; Delgany Cottage, Co Wicklow
